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Thread: Trolling and offshore rigging.

  1. #11
    Hide- My Wifes Logged On Jagsare1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snowranger View Post
    I will start by saying I am probably in the minority here with my rigs. That being said, there is something to say for the KISS method. I run 30/50/80 lb mono on my internationals based on line class (30 on 30s, 50 on 50s etc.). 80lb mono on a 50 is overkill in my opinion. For tuna fishing and mixed bag fishing I don't use any wind ons and go from mono to ball bearing snap swivel to leader. Leaders are usually 15 feet of 100 to 200 lb depending on the lure and time of year. For example, an ilander jr my have 100, green machine may have 130 and an ilander express may have 200. Circle hook rigs for dink baits are on 80lb and plugs are 250-400lb. Not that the fish cooperate, I figure my chances of hooking a big blue one on an jr ilander are smaller than on the plug so I size leader based on that assumption. Yes, you have to leader the fish by hand but for your average tuna, wahoo, white, mahi, etc., you are going to be fine. If you have a big tuna or marlin you might have a tough time but if you get to the last 15 feet, you will figure it out then!

    Now, you can get the advice from the wind-on, top shot folks...!
    Looks like you have been on my boat. Same thing I do exactly and I also believe in the KISS principal when fishing.

    We're baaack.....

  2. #12
    #1 Lurker
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    I run all braid on 30, 50, 80. 30 and 50's have 80 lb braid and the 80's have 100 lb braid. Tie a 50 twist bimini at the end of the main line. Next is the fluoro wind-ons loop to loop connection. wind-ons range from 90lb to 150 lb depending on the lure. Next is a wind-on swivel matched to the leader, then the lure. The braid overkill lets me put max heat on the fish. For me works great

  3. #13
    Sit down Shut up And fish 92 feet down's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MATUMA View Post
    I run all braid on 30, 50, 80. 30 and 50's have 80 lb braid and the 80's have 100 lb braid. Tie a 50 twist bimini at the end of the main line. Next is the fluoro wind-ons loop to loop connection. wind-ons range from 90lb to 150 lb depending on the lure. Next is a wind-on swivel matched to the leader, then the lure. The braid overkill lets me put max heat on the fish. For me works great
    I don't use much braid, so I'm speaking from inexperience, but a 50 twist bimini? Everything I've read says less twists on the Bimini for braided lines, like 12 twist. Have you tried less twists? Just curious. I have braid on my flounder rods, & I use a 12 twist.
    Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity.

  4. #14
    I Need More Posts
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    Hey Guys

    Here is a boat load of info for the new guys on putting together lures, leaders and rigs with lots of charts, articles and videos all with the KISS approach...

    Including knots, haywire twist, getting started crimping mono and cable connections and product review...

    It's "BlueWater Fishing Tactics"

    Please check it out www.fishintech.com

    Good LucK

    Thanks Guy

    Chris-Chris

  5. #15
    Anthony's Ark is a blowboater CaptainSteve's Avatar
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    My 30's are spooled with Ande Monster yellow, 30 pound test, with a 50 yard top shot of 100 pound clear Mono.

    50's are spooled with Ande Monster Yellow, 50 lbs test, and the same top shot as my 30’s. The lines are joined using a Bimini twist in the main line and an Albright knot to connect the leader. I match my lures to the size of the bait, and the fish that I am going after. If I am going after blue marlin I will use large baits anywhere from 14-20 inches, which make lots of splash, and have a ton of movement, as they emulate the small tuna that they prefer to feast on.

    For Tuna and Dorado I will use smaller baits, 6-12 inches, again matching what the fish are feeding on in the area.
    Captain Steve Sheetz
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  6. #16
    Crab mustard is good
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    Keep it simple and find the cooler water away from the 80 degree stuff.

    We have had two great seasons mostly trolling for Yellowfins that last two summers. What it comes down to is finding the tuna and when you do everything works. Almost all our tuna were caught around whales or surface breaking skippies and when they came it was mostly 5-6 on at a time or more. It really mattered little what we had out but we do fish mainly naked or shirted medium Ballyhoo all summer. We do put out spreader bars as teasers down the middle but I hate them as they take too long to bring in on light drags like we use and when the bite is on you need to boat your tuna and get the lines back in the water before the tuna dive or move which they do and then you have to go find them again many times.
    On advantage is we can fish south north of the Washington a little or around the Rock Pile early season and then work our way up to the Lindy-Toms later in the summer when the tuna move north. Many boats do not have the size or range to do this but you have to go where the tuna are and that is what we try to do.
    At times on weekends with lots of boat traffic we had to put out two planner rods to get tuna bites as none of our surface baits worked so that is something worth mentioning. I also have 9 rods and reels with Jerry Brown Hollow Core with 100 foot top shots all wind-on with 25 feet of 130 fluorocarbon leaders and the rest of my reels have dark blue mono in 60-80 lb or high vis with short 6 foot floro leaders with 240 Spro swivels that make them totally wind-on set up. I also do not like wiring tuna as many of our lost fish result from this and I do have all experienced crew members but prefer winding the tuna right to the boat and then gaffing it. Best of luck and in conclusion keep it simple and the most important thing is finding the bait where the tuna are feeding.
    55 Ft. Hooked Up II

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  7. #17
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space austin ensor's Avatar
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    For my all purpose rigs i go 300yds 80lb hollow core, then fill it up with 80LB mono ( on my 50s)
    ''MATE-TRIX Sportfishing''

  8. #18
    If Ignorance is bliss, Why aren't more people happy? clt_capt's Avatar
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    i tend to keep it very simple. We often fish short crew, so it really makes sense to be able to change out leaders with pre-rigged baits quickly. I use 40Lb Hi-Vis Momoi on the 30s and 60Lb Hi-Vis on the 50s - Snap Swivel tied directly to the mainline.

    My leaders are a bit longer than normal - 18 - 20 ft so that I can keep the hardware out of the water. All of my leaders are either bright piano wire or fluorocarbon. Depending on the particular skirt or head type, leaders range from 80 - 130 lb Fluoro
    "There's a fine line between fishing and just standing on the shore like an idiot." --STEVEN WRIGHT t

  9. #19
    #1 Lurker
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    Our rigs are also of the KISS variety exactly as snowranger described, 30 on 30s and 50 on 50s

  10. #20
    Pit Monkey First Class
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    the less hardware the better. For tuna and billfish we do a bimini twist from the mainline and connect it to to 10-15 ft of mono leader(usually 60ld) and then use the smallest spro swivel you can find (we use size 3) to connect 5-6 ft of fluro. For dolphin fishing just skip the fluro. We also just use circle hooks unless were wahoo fishing- better hook up ratio.

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