I use a single 7691 with the mono twisted. Tape the whole thing. To me lure fishing is all luck some are going to stay stuck some arent. I think it is more important to have your lure in the position where it looks right to get a strike. I see so many people just put a lure out run it up the rigger and done. They have to be constnatly adjusted to up sea or down sea, speed, weather, all kinds of different factors.
Custom hooksets we make to "fit" the lures. I make these using 7732S and 7691S. The 32 in front of the 91 on doubles and used for the wahoo cable rigs. Instead of tape, which works fine too, I use the silicone self bonding tape which you can get in various colors, seems to hang in there better than elec tape.
Last edited by canyongear; 03-29-2010 at 07:26 AM.
Here are a few photos of my lure rigging method for stiff single hook rigs. I first started using this method about 7 years ago and my hook-up to leadering ratio was 63% the first year, so I figured I'd found something. Unfortunately I've never matched that success since.
There were two reasons I started using this rigging. First was, I felt a single hook was safer for both the marlin that I planned to release as well as myself as the guy taking the hook out (several of the local fishermen had experienced having the second hook impaled in themselves when catching dorado here and that didn't sound like too much fun to me). The second reason was that we often catch wahoo while trolling for marlin here and the wire rigging would help bring them to the boat and allow me to keep my lure.
My method uses 49 strand wire from 480# to 800#, depending on the lure and tackle size (heavier for blue marlin fishing with 80# line than striped marlin fishing with 30-50 pound). It's actually a modification of the rigs you can buy, but I feel it has advantages over them. Basically the difference is that I end up with the cable doubled, which makes the whole thing stiffer, but still allows it to bend with the fish's thrashings. It also works as a handy handle for removing the hook from the fish's mouth.
The lure I'm rigging in the photos is one Mike (El Capo) sent me. It's a 12 inch tube that he's had good luck with on blues in Cabo. Hopefully the photos will be self explanatory, but a couple of things might need said. I use a hook locator (the rubber stopper) to keep the hook pointed up. I also tape the wire for added protection to both my hand and the rig.
Good photos.. The only thing different that we do is add a thimble to the loop to protect the leader. We also switched to the hays hooks and took the barb down a little.. Mark
This is an example of what I call the 'Grander Rig'. I need to give credit to my mentor, Bomboy Llanes and also to Andrew at Meltons for a few enhancements to what Bomboy taught me.
It is a double-hook 180-degree stiff rig. I use shrink tube to fix the relationship of the hooks to each other. I think this makes it a little safer when leadering a fish, since the trailing hook is not flying around wildly.
It is comprised of Mustad 7691S hooks, Momoi X-hard leader, and chafe tubing at all the wear points. One important step often overlooked is to insert chafe tubing into the entire length of the lure tube (use Pledge as needed). Bomboy demonstrated how a quickly even heavy leader can be abraded by the downward force of a non-protected lure hole rubbing on the line.
Of course the end of the line is heated and pressed on to form a mushroom tip, prior to being slid up against the crimp and then crimped.
To expand on this discussion of achieving better hookup to capture percentages, a discussion of strike drags and tag lines is probably as important as the actual hook rig used. Bomboy uses beefy strike drag settings, but only in conjuction with running all lines off of tag lines. The feeling is this allows the Blue to turn his head briefly before the tag lines come tight and the high drag setting hammers the hooks home as the fish is swimming away from the transom. On smaller boats that can't run all rods from tag lines, I modify the scenario by backing off the lever drag and thowing the lever forward as soon as humanly possible after the strike.
Oh, the model for these pictures is a Bomboy Large Tube.
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