Boat trailing from NJ to NC

[TheMan]

Well after viewing the YFT photos I am getting the inclination to buy a trailer and haul down to NC for a shot at those YFT. Boat is a 28 Mako loaded it weighs just under 10K lbs. Right now I am considering a dual 12k torsion axle bunk trailer from Hi-Tech Marine but could use some advice prior to buying. Truck doing the hauling is a F250 diesel. Anyone have experience trailing a large boat long distance and can give advice on the following?

1 How difficult is it to put a boat this size up and down a ramp? Possible / impossible?
2 Is it better to use a triple axle for long distance why or why not?
3 Pros and cons of the Tri axle verse the dual axle?
4 Bunk or roller Pros / cons

[Glenn W]

Well after viewing the YFT photos I am getting the inclination to buy a trailer and haul down to NC for a shot at those YFT. Boat is a 28 Mako loaded it weighs just under 10K lbs. Right now I am considering a dual 12k torsion axle bunk trailer from Hi-Tech Marine but could use some advice prior to buying. Truck doing the hauling is a F250 diesel. Anyone have experience trailing a large boat long distance and can give advice on the following?

1 How difficult is it to put a boat this size up and down a ramp? Possible / impossible?
2 Is it better to use a triple axle for long distance why or why not?
3 Pros and cons of the Tri axle verse the dual axle?
4 Bunk or roller Pros / cons

I have a Glacier BAy that is about the same weight. I too had to buy a trailer and this is what I have learned. I have an alum, trailer that is a double axle. I went with the double axle thinking it would be 2 less sets of bearings and tires to worry about. I wish I had gone with the triple axle as recommended by the boat manf. The aluminum trailer flexes alot with the 2 axles. A tri axle would support the tailer frame much better. Also, when on a steep ramp, the trailer flexes so much that once the boat is on flat ground, the boat is not snug against its stop. If you go with a Galv. Steel trailer (don't) a double axle will be fine
Bunks over rollers anyday.
If you go with a triple axle, try to find 15" wheels as many come with only 14" on the tri axles.
With a diesel 4x4 you will have no problems at even the steepest ramps.
Don't go with the cheapest dela you can find--- the bearings and tires are garbage on the cheap stuff ( chinese bearings, less than good quality tires). Insist on Timken or BSA bearings

[matey1]

i have trailered my 26' boat that weighs around 9000lbs to nc twice. i keep it on a galvinized steel tandem trailer with torsion axles. hardly know the thing is back there on rough roads. i think your biggest concern will be your width. if over 8.5 feet wide you technically need a permit to move it. places that could be a concern is at the tolls to the CBBT. mine is only 8.5 feet so i don't need a permit. i have rollers(84 to be exact) on the trailer and loading and unloading is a lot easier than bunks imo.

[WAHOONBOX]

WHILE I HAVE MINIMAL TRAILERING EXPERIENCE...JUST ENOUGH TO GET BY I HOPE THIS BOARD WILL LIGHT SOME FIRE TO THIS THREAD.....I SEE A FUTURE 5 STAR ONE BREWING HERE!!!!

WELCOME TO THE BOARD "THE MAN"......ARE YA "THEE MAN" AS IN TROOPER? GOVERNOR? JUST PICKIN ON YA....COOL

WHEN YOU GET HERE ...YOU WILL FIND MANY RAMPS THAT CQAN HANDLE YOU....SOME FREE....SOME PAY AT LOCAL MARINAS (ANCHORAGE MARINA -ATLANTIC BEACH HAS FLOATING DOCKS AT THEIR RAMP)...2 MILE RUN TO INLET

THERE IS ALSO A STATE RAMP NEAR THE CIVIC CENTER ON THE ICW HIWAY 70 ARENDALL ST MOREHEAD CITY....WITH A 3 MILE RUN TO THE INLET

WHEN YOU ARE COMING ...GIVE US A NOTICE AND THERE ARE MANY REDNECK REBELS ON SFC THAT WILL GIVE YA A HAND AND ADVICE ....SO ONCE AGAIN...THANKS FOR POSTING UP AND WE SHALL SEE YA IN CARLONA!!....EASY IN - EASY OUT OF THE INLET.... WE HAVE 4 MONTHS STRAIGHT OF GRADE-A WORLD CLASS FISHING STARTING TODAY....THEN IT EASES OFF TO GREAT BILLFISH AND MAHI AROUND JULY

ROCK ON! ......or should i say "ALL TRAILER'D UP AND ROCKIN ON DOWN SOUTH!"

[rich]

We have a 28 classic and just ordered a road king tri-axle for 17,000 pounds. But I am only using it to tow my boat really short distances. I would say go aluminum tri-axle always go a size larger than you need if you can afford it so when it starts getting old and loses a little strength it is still large enough to handle your boat and make sure to get all stainless hardware with your trailer an extra 150 bucks up front but will save money in the long run. You should not have any problem towing your boat with that truck. There are tons of ramps in eastern nc especially around the inlets. If you want to fish out of ocracoke (hatteras) let me know and I will give you a place to launch for free and park and not have to worry about your stuff. It is a little bit of a longer run to get to the ocean than out of morehead but there isn't a significant amount of distance to where you would fish plus I will be more than happy to run along with you and show you what few spots I know.

[TheMan]

The specs on the trailer I am considering are:
8 “ Aluminum I beam with 10300 cap (two 6K torsion axles) All SS hardware, 13” disc Kodiac Cads on all axles, 16 in tires, 8 lug wheels, composite brake lines, front centering bunks, guide ons, 2 spd manual winch with 3 in wide strap and hook, 2500 lb tongue jack, 20,000 lb coupler.

Boat width is something I have considered but will not let it be anything that prevents me from hauling state to state. The 9’10’’foot beam will be a problem when I tell the officer I didn’t know a permit was needed because I am not an officer / trooper.

Wahoo, thanks for the warn welcome sorry I missed your seminar over the weekend it was close to home for me but had prior commitments maybe next time. Will definitely be looking for friends / advise prior to coming down.

Rich, thanks for the invite would be great to have someone show me around.

[hrdcor32]

I tow my 29' on a aluminum tri-axle trailer with oilbath hubs. I like the added security of three axles, but that's just me. My personal opinion is you might want to consider going with a cable rather than a strap on that winch. I say this because everyone I have ever owned popped after a few uses. You won't have any trouble at the ramps with that size boat and the truck you are pulling it with (except parking a little later in the year). Good luck

[Reel Happy]

Ok Im not an expert but heres my opinion. The last boat I had was a 25 footer didn't weigh quite as much as your mako though only about 7500 lbs. I live in the Richmond, VA area and trailered it to Oregon Inlet, Hatteras and Morehead 4-5 hrs every trip. Good ramps all places you wont have any problem there. Oregon Inlet Fishing Center has public use ramps right by the inlet that will handle that boat and more. There are some other ramps in the area but a little further from the inlet. Hatteras, the ramps don't have quite as much room around them but you should be able to get in and out ok. Morehead I have only used the ramp at the civic center but its in good shape and plenty of room.

If I remember right the 28 mako is 8' 6" beam which should pose no problems for you.

Cable or strap winch both are going to take some TLC every couple of years.

Mine had greased bearings and I added the bearing buddies to ease in greasing. A big must. Doubled the life of the bearings but still look at repacking or replacing every year or two depending on how many miles you put on them. Never had the oil filled bearings but seem like they would work well.

bunks over rollers anyday. My opinion they support the boat better. The overall height of boat and trailer will be lower with bunks. Could be a plus in a low tide situation at some ramps or under overpasses. A buddy of mine had a roller trailer and had problems with the rollers not swiveling right and gouging the bottom of the boat when trying to drive it on. With bunks you just have to replace the carpet every 4-5 years a little less expensive than all those rollers. My boat was half my fathers and we normally loaded and unloaded as a team and could drive the boat almost to the winch very quickly and easily with a little practice. That is supposed to be the plus to the rollers but once we learned the ideal depth of that trailer for that boat the bunks did the job quite well.

[matey1]

Boat width is something I have considered but will not let it be anything that prevents me from hauling state to state. The 9’10’’foot beam will be a problem when I tell the officer I didn’t know a permit was needed because I am not an officer / trooper.

okay it might fly with the man when he stops you but i doubt it as it is your responsibility to know the laws. if you have some kind of problem, like an accident or something and do not have the permits then you will be up sh*ts creek without a paddle. your insurance might not even cover you if you do not have the proper permits and load ratings. mind you i am only trying to help here not be a pain.

i did a calculation based on the amount of roller that hits the boat with the number ihave and the amount of square footage that 2 bunks present and it basically was a wash. only difference was the rollers were spread out over the entire length adn width of the boat where as the rollers were just in one area. i am not anti bunks either but i wanted the ease of loading/unloading that rollers afford. i do not drive my boat on the trailer as i have a large 9000lb recovery winch that will winch it on even at the lowest of tides at the shallowist of ramps. boat is covered and in a barn right now or i would take a pic to show you. one other thingi had to have done was after 6 months of trailer ing the boatihave i had to have the eye bolt reinforced that is used to winch it on and keep itin place. only cost a few bucks but that was over 5 years ago and still works like it should. as far as the oil hubs i personally did not care for them. they have plastic(ABS actually) hubs and i felt that they were the weak link in the system. also i felt that if the hub did break and let all the oil out i would have nothing to keep the bearings cool. at least with buddy bearings if you lose the cap and the bearings wer packed as they should be you will still be okay.

[undisputed]

i trailer around 12k miles a year and i will say this.dont skimp on the trailer.i did that with my 36 contender and i paid for it. in my opinion i would go with a triple axle electric over hydro,torsion axle trailer. have at least 1 spare tire and it dosent hurt to also have a spare hub lying around.i think the bunk trailer is a better option then the rollers boat to me sits on it better and you never have to worry about a roller acting up or falling off.
If you are going in an out you want to be able to sink most of the trailer to get the boat on. this is fairly easy once you do it a couple of times. also make sure you get a trailer heavy enough always over size the weight.

as far as towing most of the places the with is not a problem the cbbt just cost more to go thru with a larger rig (make sure you have cash)