Temp Gauge Setup

[Split Bill]

Hey guys --

The temp gauge just stoped working on my transducer. Rather ran replace the transducer (which is otherwise fine), i wanted to setup a separate temp gauge.

We have a 33' inboard boat, and I have seen others that have plumbed a thru-hull sensor into their raw-water pick-up so that the sensor can be replaced in the future w/o hauling the boat.

I'd like to have this kind of set-up, but can't find a simple, fairly slender temp sensor and gauge set-up.

What do you guys use or recommend? At this point I'm open to suggestions!

Ed

[gameover]

I ended up with a raymarine ST-? i cant remember.

ST stands for speed and temp.

Its a cool little unit, very simple. it does require a thru hull sensor though.

I dont think they make the "dytek" temp gauges anymore, thats the one you want.

good luck.

Try calling mid shore, they may have some input.

[Captain Rich Adler]

My Dytek passed away end of last season also. If you can't find the unit you are looking for, a replacement for the Dytek is made by CruzPro in New Zealand.
Their American distributor is Downwind Marine in San Diego, Ca. You will still need a thru-hull, their unit is not compatible with the Dytek gauge, but the whole thing gauge plus thru hull transducer was very reasonable, something like $169 if I remember correctly.

[Split Bill]

Hey guys --

Hugely helpful information...particularly the Cruzpro option. That is exactly what I was looking for!

Thanks again!

Ed

[Split Bill]

Hey everyone --

After getting the feedback from this group, I ended up going with the Cruzpro gauge and temp sensor. Mounted it in the raw-water intake and replaced the old dytek gauge in the dashboard. Pretty straightforward operation, but here's a quick how-to for those interested. Biggest advantage is that I didn't have to drill another hole in the hull, and now I can replace the ducer if it craps out without having to haul the boat.

1. Close seacock and unscrew the brass endcap from your raw-water engine strainer and drill a hole in it that exactly matches the transducer (about an inch and a half if I remember, but you should measure).

2. mount the new temp ducer in the brass endcap and seal sufficiently. I used a rubber washer on the inside and plenty of 5200 in the hole to ensure a tight seal. Let all this dry before screwing the cap back on.

3. run the wire up to the bridge dashboard

4. mount the temp gauge in the dash or replace your old one and wire per the directions. The only hard part about this is that the Cruzpro gauge requires 3 wires to go into the same hole. This was a little tricky and I wish they did it differently, but it worked well.

5. make sure you reopen your seacock, and then start up your engine. Look for any leakage or bubbles indicating air getting into the strainer. Check temp gauge and ensure it's working.

6. go for a run. Double check that you're not losing any water flow or seeing any engine temp changes. Mine was just fine.

Hope that helps someone out there. I first saw this set-up in a Blackwell, but am sure it's been stolen many times before. I also bought an extra temp ducer for the cruzpro gauge to ensure i have one onhand for the next time it craps out.

Tight lines.

Ed

[Captain Rich Adler]

Ed- This is interesting, I haven't installed mine yet. I have one problem with this.... there is a wire going to the transducer.... what happens when you unscrew the cap to clean out the strainer, or as in my case in the winter we run antifreeze thru the strainer to purge the engine of seawater.... won't the wire get kinked and break? Can you disconect the wire from the transducer? Maybe it would have been better to drill the piping either before or after the strainer?? If you do it after the seacock, if you have to replace it again, you can close the valve and replace the ducer without lifting the boat out of the water. What do you think ? I was going to do mine (thru the hull) in the next week, now you have me thinking !----Rich

[Split Bill]

Rich -- Mine actually worked out pretty well w/ the wire. It's a long wire as you can imagine. I turned the cap 3-4 times to the left (counter-twisting the wire) before putting it in place and then turned 3-4 time to the right to tighten it down (untwisting the twists). Once it is in place, zip-tie the wire so everything is neat and there's less slack hanging down there.

If you're considering it, i wouldn't let the twists in the wire slow you down...ended up being a non-issue.

Glad to talk more if I can be helpful.

Ed

[Captain Rich Adler]

Also isn't the engine heat going to warm the probe and give you a false temp reading? My sea strainers are pretty close to the engines.

[Captain Rich Adler]

Also isn't the engine heat going to warm the probe and give you a false temp reading? My sea strainers are pretty close to the engines.

[Split Bill]

Hey Rich --

Definitely see your point about engine temps, and if I hadn't fished a bunch on my buddy's boat that had this set-up i'd have the same worry.

I can tell you he's never had a problem despite twin 700ish hp cats, and when I fired up my 3208's on Sunday the temp dropped right from 85 degrees (block heaters were on), down to high 30's, which seems about right for where we were. We ran about 40 miles that day, and the temp fluctuated between 39 and 44 and seemed to correspond with reasonable changes in conditions (ie changed when we went across the change line leaving the inlet and into the ocean water). Also, i didn't notice any increase or decrease in temp when we slowed down to troll.

Typically, my engine room doesn't get too warm while running or trolling, plus you're pulling a lot water through the strainers, which will I imagine will more than counteract the temp of the surrounding air outside the strainer. I remember putting a bucket of salt-water down there on the run out one cold morning to help thaw hoos, and being shocked that it didn't get very warm at all, but I suppose those engines also pull a lot of fresh air into the engine room as you run.

I hope this is helpful. Don't blame you if you stick with the tried and true method of through-hull, but thought this was interesting and am happy w/ the way it worked out for us. Good luck either way!

Ed