Orange Anchor Line Bouys

[longfisher]

Some of the other stuff I've now read says to make sure the anchor is securely "locked" in the ring and bouy. How does the anchor lock in that system?

Thanks,

Longfisher

[Flatdog]

Be real careful guys we get Idiots every year that use this system and sink them selves.

Warning - Under no circumstances secure the warp to the stern cleat as this is potentially dangerous – anchor load MUST always be taken on the bow.

By motoring uptide (or in the direction of the anchor if there is no tide), the angle of pull releases the anchor and the warp flows through the ring.

Eventually the chain passes through the ring leaving the anchor and chain suspended by the ring and supported on the surface by the buoy.

(Note that the chain needs to be heavier than the anchor to counter the anchor's weight.)

The manoeuvre is completed by the crew pulling the warp back into the boat, with just the weight of the floating gear to contend with.

The recovery of the gear can either be from the bow or midships. The latter is easier and preferable and ideal for boats with no safe access

to the foredeck, eg cabin boats with no forehatch.

Tip – if you are planning to anchor in the same depth of water next time, the stop can be left in position ready for the next anchoring.

It is obviously necessary to take great care when manoeuvring to ensure that the warp is kept clear of the keel and propeller at all times. With sensible care this method

of recovery is safe, reliable and far less strenuous.



Tip – by carefully observing the buoy during the manoeuvre it is easy to ascertain what is happening below.

a) Initially the buoy will bob steadily rearwards as rope comes through the ring

b) As the buoy starts to work and release the anchor’s grip by providing a vertical pull, the buoy can be seen to dig in the surface slightly.

c) When the anchor comes free of the seabed, the buoy can be seen to bob freely to the surface and bob gently as more rope comes through.

d) Finally when the chain comes through the ring the buoy can be seen to be dragging along the surface – time to throttle back, turn broadside to the warp and recover the gear.



Warning – if the anchor is stuck fast in say a wreck or obstruction, when tension builds up in the warp, providing the anchor is suitably tripped it will hopefully come clear.

However if it remains fast, then considerable tension will build up in the warp and this can lead to a dangerous situation. It is easy to recognise this as the engine will be heard and felt to labour.

It is paramount if this happens that the engine is gently throttled back to release this tension. If the engine power is reduced rapidly there is danger of the bow snatching rearwards alarmingly.

[longfisher]

Great post. Very well-reasoned warning.

I feel like I was just cured of idiocy, hahahah. I'd probably have learned some of that the old fashioned way, by error.

Longfisher

[seapower]

Your advise was very well thought out. If you've done it, it makes sense. It would be hard to recognise the first time, the first time could sink you if you weren't aware. We used this system commercial bottom fishing, works well, but can be dangerous as you pointed out. You may have saved someone a bad time. Thank's for the post. Frank

[HOLWACHAGOT]

Be real careful guys we get Idiots every year that use this system and sink them selves.

Warning - Under no circumstances secure the warp to the stern cleat as this is potentially dangerous – anchor load MUST always be taken on the bow.

By motoring uptide (or in the direction of the anchor if there is no tide), the angle of pull releases the anchor and the warp flows through the ring.

Eventually the chain passes through the ring leaving the anchor and chain suspended by the ring and supported on the surface by the buoy.

(Note that the chain needs to be heavier than the anchor to counter the anchor's weight.)

The manoeuvre is completed by the crew pulling the warp back into the boat, with just the weight of the floating gear to contend with.

The recovery of the gear can either be from the bow or midships. The latter is easier and preferable and ideal for boats with no safe access

to the foredeck, eg cabin boats with no forehatch.

Tip – if you are planning to anchor in the same depth of water next time, the stop can be left in position ready for the next anchoring.

It is obviously necessary to take great care when manoeuvring to ensure that the warp is kept clear of the keel and propeller at all times. With sensible care this method

of recovery is safe, reliable and far less strenuous.



Tip – by carefully observing the buoy during the manoeuvre it is easy to ascertain what is happening below.

a) Initially the buoy will bob steadily rearwards as rope comes through the ring

b) As the buoy starts to work and release the anchor’s grip by providing a vertical pull, the buoy can be seen to dig in the surface slightly.

c) When the anchor comes free of the seabed, the buoy can be seen to bob freely to the surface and bob gently as more rope comes through.

d) Finally when the chain comes through the ring the buoy can be seen to be dragging along the surface – time to throttle back, turn broadside to the warp and recover the gear.



Warning – if the anchor is stuck fast in say a wreck or obstruction, when tension builds up in the warp, providing the anchor is suitably tripped it will hopefully come clear.

However if it remains fast, then considerable tension will build up in the warp and this can lead to a dangerous situation. It is easy to recognise this as the engine will be heard and felt to labour.

It is paramount if this happens that the engine is gently throttled back to release this tension. If the engine power is reduced rapidly there is danger of the bow snatching rearwards alarmingly.

Sound advice. Sometimes common sense is not so common. Judgement must certainly be used when pulling the ball from the stern cleat. If the motor strats loading up and you start slowing down...throttle is not the best option here. Get another angle on it.
Don't think for a second though that the transom won't dive under too much pressure just because you are roped to the bow. The same common sense must still be used if the anchor gets bound up.
In one respect I understand the logic of cleating off from the bow or amidship on retrieval of the ball....I also think the possibility of fouling the anchor line in the motor or running gear drastically increases while doing so. Also more difficult to work the controls and the line when solo that way. For these reasons I am still unsure of the benefits of cleating from the bow on retrieval. Common sense is underrated regardless. The polyball system will make your life SOOOOO easy compared to doing it the "mean" way...Hand over hand.
Holwachagot

[seabass]

LONGFISHER,
when I saw you looking for the orange poly balls I just assumed you knew of the anchor retrieval ring system that works hand in hand with the poly ball. The link I provided sells them I believe.
You will love how simple the ring will make retrieving the anchor. It allows you to free the anchor and bring it to the top with the boat. Then you just pull in the rope and poly ball...the anchor will be floating with the ball. Hope that makes sense. Hand over hand is a pain...not to mention...dangerous as hell solo. The bouy retrieval system is the heat.
Holwachagot

Used to do the same thing with a 5 gallon bucket .

[HOLWACHAGOT]

Used to do the same thing with a 5 gallon bucket .

Those old salts were way ahead of us. Seen that too...Slick as a whistle.
Howachagot

[Procastinator]

I use the poly ball even though I also have a windlass. It is much quicker, easier on the windlass, and a ball in the water off the bow while on the hook lets others know you are at anchor from a distance. A good way to go on the ball is to have a few tight loops of 1/4 inch line woven into the main rode so you can take the ball and snap it through the loop and around the rode, so, if you have to dump your anchor, you can do so quickly and not worry about loosing the bitter end of your rode while you pay the rest of the rode out of the windlass. I use a bright colored loop woven in about 25 ft, from the end of the rode so I know to make sure the ball is clipped in the loop before dumping any more rode.