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Last edited by Miles Offshore; 01-02-2008 at 09:18 AM.
No worries Box. We all got to learn somehow. A few years back I learned the hard way. I had bought a brand new 13" shell squid Spreader bar from a local guy and never checked it out before deploying it in our spread. Well about an hour later we raise about a 600 pounder and it was hot. I watched from the tower as the fish repeatedly ate the stinger and thought for sure we would hook up. this went on for about a minute and the fish eventually gave up. We reeled in the bar and the bead that is supposed to stop the shell squid from sliding down over the hook was not there. The hook was tucked up inside the squid and would have never hooked a fish.![]()
There was a test not too long ago on the crimps and the single aluminum did hold better. I think they said it had to do with the longer surface area of contact with the mono. But as was said, diligence in process is the key IMHO. And good equipment. Lost two fish last season to 'old reliable'. My crimping tool that had never failed me failed me big time last season. Lesson learned... crimping tools do wear out. There will be a new crimp tool in my arsenal every year from now on!
Backman, don't think I'd want to be in the room when you're testing hooks at over 100lbs.!! Any brand or model that seemed to hold up better than others? Did any of them break at under 100 lbs? Not that I plan to ever have 100 lbs of drag on anything.
JB
The guy that made the testing box did so industrial style with a plexiglass cover so we could see and not get hurt. I pooh poohed it till the 1st time a hook blew. Nothing blew under 100#; but some blew under 150#, prior to line snapping.
I recall an 8/0 7691 SS trolling hook blowing up and a couple 3407 or 34007's ballyhook rigs breaking; all at the bend.
I know we moved from testing hook/line/crimp rigs to double crimped rigs w/ aluminum on one end; double barrels on another and consistently had the double barrelled ones fail first.
We also noted (alchohol was involved so the memory dims) that once a crimp started slipping the lighter fused blob at the end did no more than change the situation from the crimp slipping to the line blowing up on the inside of the crimp.
It really was a great learning experience and one I would like to redo w/ a bit more written documentation some time this winter.
Aloha
Double and triple check those crimped sleeves...If you have any doubt, cut and redo till ya think its right.
The best hand swager I have found for my mono and cable applications is the Korean commercial grade model HL-450...Once those babies lock in, you get the perfect crimp every time....Mine are 7ys old and going strong...Spend the $$$ and never look back.
It happens, I lost a monster bigeye this year because i made the same mistake. We had a black hole open up behind chain on the short rigger. Reel started screaming and then nothing.
I did the same thing. Depending how the hook lands in the fishes mouth if it takes off at an angle will push one side of the loop against the crimp. If you don't have the flare...snap...the leader will break.
Hey Box thats why they call it fish'n, please don't be so hard on your self man thats funny shit dude Capt. Scott
AFTER SOME IN DEPTH COUNSELING FROM NONE OTHER THAN O-SEA-D...AND THE BEAST ..., NOT TO LEAVE OUT MY PERSONAL MARINE...ALSO THE BLOCK....AND THEN MY OWN GO-TO ZEN BUHDDIST MONK LIVING WITH A ONE WINGED CONDOR ON A TIBETIAN HILLSIDE............
THE CRIMP ISSUE HAS BEEN RESOLVED..........2 FOR 2 SINCE THE LOSS![]()
THANKS TO ALL WHO SHARED THE KNOWLEDGE HERE............
im really curious ........................... maybe a contest on what gives first, the running line or the crimp........![]()
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