I'm basically thankful that i have the energy, or the physical ability, to move my fingers enough to type right now. We returned well after midnight last night after another incredible trip to the o-zone, where this time rifling right-hand point breaks focused our attention instead of more familiar piscatorial endeavors.
The surf was exceptional, overhead and then some, and gnarly fast. I took a beating of biblical proportions as my out-of-shape, too-much-time-in-the-tower-and-not-enough-time-in-the-water frame got rag-dolled on one set wave after another. I distinctly remember getting pummeled on one particular wave, after sticking the drop i put the hammer down and tried with Herculean effort to outrun the savage demon bearing down behind me. No such luck. As i cartwheeled over the reef i couldn't help but think - GODDAMNIT IT'S A LOT SAFER IN THE TOWER!
Of course it's easy to look stupid when you're surfing with 3X world champ Tom Curren, his two boys Pat and Frank, and other incredibly adept pro's like Josh Mulcoy, Raph and Cath Bruhwiler/Temple, and my nine year old son Kalum - all of whom make it look waaaaaay too damn easy.
What the hell, at least i made a few. Although none of them were pretty.
I would have to say that this last chapter would qualify as one of those "dream" trips that we will likely have trouble duplicating. Chances to surf perfect, world-class waves with a legend like Tom Curren do not come along every day. To have access to a spot like we do, requiring permits that are not at all easy to come by, and a boat like Maximo with which to play with - well, suffice it to say i don't know what the hell i did to deserve this. The last five days have certainly re-defined my level of appreciation.
The camaraderie was epic, like we'd all grown up together and this was something we do every weekend. Tom's kids and my son Kalum became instant friends, and the rest of us shared cold beers and teriyaki tenderloin right along with killer, prolonged sessions. Everything i've ever heard about Curren was spot on - he's as mellow and considerate as it gets. I won't even go into how he surfs. To have Tom turn to you on a massive set wave and yell "GO JT GOOOOO!!!!" is something i'll never forget - particularly because of the beating i usually endured because of it.
Josh, Raph, and Cath were absolutely killing it too. I've never witnessed such flawless surfing by so many people at one time. As one massive set rolled in after another the level of performance just kept getting pushed. I found myself sitting in the dingy a lot just draining beers and shaking my head after somebody pulled a particularly savage maneuver.
The groms were blowing up and my son Kalum's performance level jumped several notches over the past four days surfing with these guys. To watch Kalum push himself over waves that were three and four times overhead for him was a defining moment for me as a father. One of those times where i went "Jesuschrist!" as fear choked my throat when the wave crashed towards him, and then "HOLYCHIT YEEEEOOOOOOOOWWWWW!!!" as he stuck the drop and obliterated the lip. The kid is gnarly.
Now that the trip is winding down and we're back here in Punta Mita cleaning up the boat and surfing local beach breaks, i've finally got a chance to gather my thoughts and nurse my various calamities. After two days of paddling and getting worked like a smoked rib on an all-you-can-eat Outback Steakhouse sunday i've decided i'd better get my ass back in surfing shape, before it's too late.
I'm fishing all weekend with SteveD and the Herk & Sue team aboard their 54 Viking, and you can betcher ass that i'll be doing push-ups and crunches between the action. We're not getting any younger, and the reef sure ain't getting any softer.
We have literally thousands of photos and a mile of video action, so bare with me while i get a few sorted out and posted up.



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