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After a month of nonstop fishing across the Pacific, I had to get back to my first love and go get wet. With an epic South swell approaching, I loaded up the family, boards, diaper bags, sand buckets, shovels and a myriad of dolls, strangely all bearing the same name of Mono.The VW Pointer was packed to the gills and we pointed it towards the land of lefts, Mazatlan.
For those of you that have visited us here in Mex, you know that my babys mama is an absolutely ripping surfer. After 6yrs of my pestering and pleading, Mili finally consented to surfing in a contest. Big beachbreak in San Pancho, big surprise, she won, qualifying for the Nationals in Mazatlan.
We arrive in Mazatlan to a building swell and the left points are all on fire. Day one, first heat, Mili slays the competition taking first in her first heat. Surfers from all around begin to ask, "Who is this girl, and where did she come from?"
Day two, the swell has risen to a solid 6 to 8 feet and breaking up onto the famed Malecon of Mazatlan sending vendors fleeing with sopping handfuls of witty tshirts and soggy straw hats. Mili steps up to the bat again as the surf pounds continuously. The girls´ competition was almost called off due to the size of the surf but after much debate the semifinal horn was blowing. She paddles out and after no less than 38 duckdives she is in position. She gets one decent wave, milking it to the inside. The other girls are struggling and Mili acts like it is this big everyday in Mita. This day she is sparring with two of the top pros in Mexico from Puerto Escondido. With two minutes left, the other girls all have a full wave count of two and Mili is left sitting outside.
"Come on Mili, just one more," I think to myself as I wring my hands standing at the shorepound with my trusty Olympus in tow. A large set arises and I see Mili stroking for the horizon. Just when I thought she was going to paddle over, she turns and digs hard and drops into a solid triple overhead left. She races down the line to the oncoming section and throws an Occyesque perfect frontside lip bash and comes down clean. The wave then doubles up in the shorepound and she airdrops four feet to the flats and pulls it. Then she gets crushed by a mountain of whitewater. The crowd erupts as they cannot believe this was a female absolutely dominating the massive waves. Shit, I had the camera pointed the whole time and only snapped one shot. Im in trouble. She paddles in and ten minutes later, the announcer confirms what we already know, "First place semifinal, Dorian Emiliana, Nayarit!" All smiles, she´s just knocked out the number one pro in Mex.
Final day, the waves are still coming strong and Mili is ready. After changing Mahana´s diaper, she dons her red contest jersey and dives into the shorepòund. She paddles to the outside with one other girl and other two opt to stay inside and surf the reforms. Again she dominates the surf, throwing cutbacks and off the lips with reckless abandon. No other competidor stood a chance. Alas, Pamela from Guerrero gets two good waves all the way to the inside, not doing much more than surviving but two good scores none the less. The other girls are struggling on the inside but picking off a few. The horn sounds and the surfers return. After hours of waiting for the results, the contest ends and no announcement. I storm the judges tower and demand the results. Third place. Huh? How? Why? Apparently politics run rampant in Mexican Surf Championships and one of the girls, sponsored by Roxy needed to go to the world championships. I guess her mom has a lot of money and a lot of clout with the Mexican Surf Association so her daughter is headed to Lima, Peru.
Anyhow, second contest ever and third in Mexico. Lttle girls flocked her at the awards ceremony. " You surf so good, how do you hit it so hard?" Mili took it pretty hard until a major surf company CEO came up to her and told her the contest was hers and not to be discouraged and that he would like to talk with her at the next contest. The top surfers came and told her she was robbed as well and not to worry, there is always another contest. Sometimes it doesnt matter if you win or lose, you show your stuff, and no matter what the judges´ cards say, you know you are a champ.
Special thanks to Ron and Mike at Pelagic for their support and to all of our babysitters at the contest. Mazatlan was great, good food, good surf, lots of beautiful bronzed bodies and memories of a lifetime.
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Nice to hear that she was kicking ass and takeing names. Now it is just a matter of time...
