Wood boat question

moresquid · 07-25-2008, 11:27 AM

Seems to be alot of knowledgable people on this board so I would appreciate any thoughts or advice as to whether or not I should fiberglass the hull on my boat.
I have a 1987 32' harkers island boat built by Jamie Lewis.
We repainted about five years ago and now it's starting to crack above the waterline mainly due to drying out during the winter months so I'll be repainted if nothing else. She's still tight below the waterline but definetly slows down after a week or two in the water due to the added weight. Any comments about the pros and cons of glassing or methods of sealing?

Questsportfishing · 07-25-2008, 01:41 PM

first your boats old! west system 'epoxy is what a bunch of people do and they take it up above the waterline about 1-2 feet. You first have to make sure it is dry as can be (use heat lamps etc. .. AND make sure the boat is fastened properly!) the boat will move some all do but you cannot have loose stuff! you should also know when you 'glass in' a wood boat you have to keep the water out of the bilge also! that means hatch drains to sump pump boxes instead of all of it in the bilge .. shaft seals <~~ most don't install these and they let salt water in and sling it everywhere! if you don't do this job properly it will just trap water in between the epoxy-glass and wood and rot her out fast. all thru hulls have to come out and be re-installed after the job is done and dry. on the other hand you can take a saw a pick and some time and re-fasten, re-seal, sand (sandblast) prime and paint for a hell of a lot less. your the only one who knows so far what shape your wood planks and bottom are in.

moresquid · 07-25-2008, 02:11 PM

Thanks for the reply, Are you recommending to encapsolate both sides, the west system book advises not to unless it's new construction?
I think you hit on one my biggest questions, everyone says glass it but if it's tight is there a epoxy type product I can apply without glassing? is the glass just for strength? if so I don't think it's needed.

Sea Draggin · 07-25-2008, 02:21 PM

Hopefully Deep C will see this and respond. He has a lot of good experience with this. PM him if he doesn't.

Questsportfishing · 07-25-2008, 04:56 PM

the one with the bottom paint is the only 1 if you choose that route

07-25-2008, 11:27 AM	#1
moresquid #1 Lurker Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 4 Credits: 1,242.0	Wood boat question Seems to be alot of knowledgable people on this board so I would appreciate any thoughts or advice as to whether or not I should fiberglass the hull on my boat. I have a 1987 32' harkers island boat built by Jamie Lewis. We repainted about five years ago and now it's starting to crack above the waterline mainly due to drying out during the winter months so I'll be repainted if nothing else. She's still tight below the waterline but definetly slows down after a week or two in the water due to the added weight. Any comments about the pros and cons of glassing or methods of sealing?

07-25-2008, 01:41 PM	#2
Questsportfishing Crab mustard is good Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft Lauderdale Posts: 627 Credits: 2,194.5 Boat: 28' Custom Bertram Home Port: Port Everglades Best Catch: the one that makes people smile! Occupation: Sport Fishing Captian	pros n cons about your job... first your boats old! west system 'epoxy is what a bunch of people do and they take it up above the waterline about 1-2 feet. You first have to make sure it is dry as can be (use heat lamps etc. .. AND make sure the boat is fastened properly!) the boat will move some all do but you cannot have loose stuff! you should also know when you 'glass in' a wood boat you have to keep the water out of the bilge also! that means hatch drains to sump pump boxes instead of all of it in the bilge .. shaft seals <~~ most don't install these and they let salt water in and sling it everywhere! if you don't do this job properly it will just trap water in between the epoxy-glass and wood and rot her out fast. all thru hulls have to come out and be re-installed after the job is done and dry. on the other hand you can take a saw a pick and some time and re-fasten, re-seal, sand (sandblast) prime and paint for a hell of a lot less. your the only one who knows so far what shape your wood planks and bottom are in.

07-25-2008, 02:21 PM	#4
Sea Draggin I think Admin is going to let me have this space Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: High Point, NC Posts: 3,842 Credits: 3,879.0 Blog Entries: 1	Hopefully Deep C will see this and respond. He has a lot of good experience with this. PM him if he doesn't. __________________ . www.EasternTackle.com My Jigging Videos

07-25-2008, 04:56 PM	#5
Questsportfishing Crab mustard is good Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Ft Lauderdale Posts: 627 Credits: 2,194.5 Boat: 28' Custom Bertram Home Port: Port Everglades Best Catch: the one that makes people smile! Occupation: Sport Fishing Captian	no you cannot do both sides.. the one with the bottom paint is the only 1 if you choose that route

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07-25-2008, 02:11 PM	#3
moresquid #1 Lurker Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 4 Credits: 1,242.0	Thanks for the reply, Are you recommending to encapsolate both sides, the west system book advises not to unless it's new construction? I think you hit on one my biggest questions, everyone says glass it but if it's tight is there a epoxy type product I can apply without glassing? is the glass just for strength? if so I don't think it's needed.