the newer outboards have a flushout hose. is it possible to connect your raw water hose to the flushout connector and limp home if an impeller failed. How many rpms would you consider safe if this was possible? or would you rely on the high temp alarm?
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I know a bit about engines and outboards. Only the old old though, I don't know much about the new stuff with all this fancy EFI! lmao.
I don't see why that wouldn't work if you could connect it up well enough. I wouldn't rely on the high temp alarm to figure out how fast you could run it because from my experience those things come on once it is too hot and you have to shut it down right away. That wouldn't be good if you were trying to get back from somewhere in bad weather or something and you had to shut down your engine for awhile...
I personally wouldn't push it with the warning light and horn. I'd just run it idling or maybe a bit faster if needed because of wind or current.
It's a real shame that more boats don't have actual gauges anymore and that they just have idiot lights and stuff. But that's just it, most people are IDIOTS and can't read a gauge from a billboard!! If you're smart enough and/or lucky enough to have real water temp (or oil temp if it's a 4 stroke) gauges and all those other very handy gauges, it'd be a lot easier to throw your raw water hose on the flushout and run it without worrying about overheating. With the warning lights and horns I wouldn't trust it going above idle, but if I had the gauges, I'd be willing to give it a whirl at WOT.
Also, a lot of people don't know this, but all the impeller does is pump water to the powerhead at idle. At speed, the water is forced in there pretty good and the impeller is just there to kinda help it along in the process. The impeller spins so fast the it actually doesn't contact the sides of the pump (and that's how it "pumps" is getting water trapped between the pump wall and the impeller blade.) All it does at speed is spin and helps.
Damn good idea though, somebody should purposely try it. Drop the lower unit and remove the impeller and go run around the basin with just the raw water hose and see if it works...
I hope that made sence. Like I said, I don't know much about the new big motors. All my experience is with smaller motors from the 50's through the 70's.
very good stuff 79broncofisherman. I would guess the bottom of the block could keep a flow of water. I don't know if the top 2 on a v6 would stay cool with the raw water connection. 79broncofisherman you are right this connection could keep your boat in a safe position rather than drifting beam to. If idle is all I could get or a low rpm till some help arrived thats a plus way to look at it. Thanks Dude
Flatbottom, just caught this thread. I re-powered in 03, Merc 150 optimax's. Mercury and my dealer disagreed over this. Can the engines run while they are being flushed using the hose hookup? The answer was it's not enough pressure to cool engine using the hookup, flush engine with engine off if using the hose hookup. If I want to run engine and flush, do so with the lower unit wrap around thingies. That was the consensus. Hope this makes sense.
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