Varnish Removal & Restoration

[JD5652]

heat gun and sand paper.my favorite product is Bristol Finish.It is very durable and easy to use,looks great.www.bristolfinish.com

Blackwell-

Read up a little on the Bristol product. The finished product on the web site looks a lot what's on the boat now when it was in good condition. I also like the fact that it can be applied in cold temps down to 30 deg. F. That's a BIG PLUS for me here in NE.

Did you use the Wet-on-Wet Method or the standard Apply-Let Dry-Sand-Reapply Method?

Would you happen to have any pics of the finished product?

Thanks again!

[Glenn W]

JD,
Give Tuna Taxi a call regarding the Bristol Finish. He has redone his Post in Bristol.
Each to his own I guess, IMHO real Spar Varnish has a richer and cleaner look to it, but that Bristol Finish sure holds up. If it had to deal with Teak again, there is no doubt I would opt for the Bristol (at least on exterior surfaces).
Bill stripped and redid his fighting chair 3 years ago using Bristol. Never covered and it looks as good now as the day he put it on.--- not a single chip

[Capt-D]

* Avoid applying varnish in direct sunlight, or late in the day if night time dew is expected.[/QUOTE]

JD,

Trust me on this one! I made that mistake after three days of stripping covering boards on an 43 egg harbor I was working on. I took three days to show, meanwhile I had applied three more coats. Nothing like doing a stripping job twice!

-D

[Tuna Taxi]

JD,

I used Bristol Finish on the teak trim around the exterior of the boat, and used Honey Teak on the chair that Glenn was talking about. Both work well, but don't believe what you read about how many coats you can wet-on-wet, or the claims about temp range and dew exposure. It is much better than varnsh, but not as good as they claim. One thing that is very good is that you can re-coat up to 24 hrs without sanding.....that is the greatest benefit. Definitely do that.

It will take far too long to type out my lessons learned, so give me a call if you like and I'd be happy to chat with you about it. 757-869-2300.

As for stripping, a heat gun & scraper will work nearly as fast as stripper, and you will not have the mess. I'd recommend the heat/scraper, then 80 grit down to 220 grit. Wipe with denatured alch or Acetone, depending on the product you use, then coat away.

One thing I did realize after the enormous job of recoating the teak........it didn't look as bad before as I thought it did

[JD5652]

Glenn, Capt-D, Bill -

Thanks for all the info guys....this is what I love about SFC....aska question and you get HELP ASAP......Bill I will give you a call this afternoon...

Thanks again!

[blackwell50]

Blackwell-

Read up a little on the Bristol product. The finished product on the web site looks a lot what's on the boat now when it was in good condition. I also like the fact that it can be applied in cold temps down to 30 deg. F. That's a BIG PLUS for me here in NE.

Did you use the Wet-on-Wet Method or the standard Apply-Let Dry-Sand-Reapply Method?

Would you happen to have any pics of the finished product?

Thanks again!

I used the wet on wet method.Go to items for sale on this site and look at my 2002 bayshore skiff there.The helm pod on there is Bristol Finish,8 coats.

[Glenn W]

If Bill would ever get that god aweful blue tape off the entire front end, the old girl would look really sharp

[JD5652]

I used the wet on wet method.Go to items for sale on this site and look at my 2002 bayshore skiff there.The helm pod on there is Bristol Finish,8 coats.

Blackwell-

Sweet rig you have there....can't believe no one has jumped on that yet!

If Bill would ever get that god aweful blue tape off the entire front end, the old girl would look really sharp

Glenn-

Talked with Bill for quite a while.....obvioulsy he's not telling me ALL the secrets on how to make this job first class

[Tuna Taxi]

Glenn-

Talked with Bill for quite a while.....obvioulsy he's not telling me ALL the secrets on how to make this job first class

No big secret there......when you're done, take the #&%#* tape off immediately. If not, you have a nice blue accent stripe for the next couple seasons. A section of tape on the bow got wet the day after I finished, which puts it on hard, then had my mother in law's funeral to arrange, etc., then got back to it and needed a flame thrower to get the tape off. Haven't gotten up the motivation to pull it off in dime-size pieces for 30' of bow rail. Maybe if I could get Glenn out of the Peanut Gallery and onto the bow of my boat, the tape would disappear

[Banshee]

The only thing I could add is thatI use Awlspar by the Awlgrip company, it dries fast and leaves a great finish. The best part is you can put on 2 or 3 coats in a day. Just follow the instructions on the can and use their reducer.
JW