Teak - oil or not?

[Double D]

Just cleaned my teak with the 2 part solution and it looks pretty good. Now whether or not to oil it? I've heard arguments both ways, whats the concensus here? I need some convincing

Its a swim platform and some trim. Whats a swim platform doing on a fishing boat you say? When my daughter outgrows it its gone, but until then I'd like to keep it nice

[flatbottom]

DD I would say the oil will bring out the natural beauty of the grans in the teak and give it the slightly darker (wet) look. Most can be applied with a soft rag(old t-shirt) and a chinese brisle 1 1/2 inch yachtsman straight edge brush for the points joining the fiberglass. I have seen some oils with a tint mixed in for a deaper richer look but that I will leave up your preference. Personally I like the detailed look the oil gives the teak. Sounds like a fairly simple job for you on a sunny morning, Good teaking DD. post up a finished pic...flat

[Glenn W]

The purests will tel you that exterior Teak should not be oiled-- just kept clean and maintain the Silver Ghost look.
Oil will accumulate and hold dirt and grime and tends to make the wood fibers soft.
It sure does look good all freshly oiled up though.
I had a swim platform on an Albe I had ( along with a ton of Teak trim). Here's what I did (from directions on a blowboat maintence book):
cleaned teak extremely well and put on 12 coats of marine Spar varnish. The trick with varnished wood is not to ever let it get to the point that it starts to crack or chip. Twice a year I would go over all the Teak and touch up any scratches with a couple coats of varnish ( sand just a little first).
It may not have been the classic look, but it sure was pretty and not that hard to maintain once I did it right.
If you do decide to varnish it, spend the extra few bucks and only use Marine Spar varnish. The trick is many, many, thin coats, let cure totally between coats ( at least a day in summer) and do not apply in the evening as doo will screw it all up and make the finish milky.

[Double D]

Ok, so we are split down the middle already

2 years ago, I went with 12 coats of Interlux UV resistant varnish. I believe it had epoxy in it as well. It looked fantastic like a piece of fine furniture, until the next spring when it had chipped and spalled requiring me to strip it down bare again. It was also ver slippery when wet, at least one kid took a spill. I could put some nonskid in it, but this was alot of work and knowing myself I will not keep up with scratches like Glenn suggests.

Last year I stripped it I oiled it, 3 coats with teak prep. Looked great for about a week and a half. With the exhaust, UV and salt water splashing on it, the oil just can't hold up

I think I'll try to leave it bare unless somebody can tell me what I am doing wrong. It only takes 10 minutes to clean again if it dirts up quickly.

Thanks for the responses

[Double D]

oops, I meant interlux with urethane, not epoxy

[flatbottom]

DD a product I use to restore a soft gloss to any wood is tung oil. Today it also comes in a matte and high gloss formula. Lowes carries it in the Bear/ glasgow area. Wembly's in a green can I believe. Applied with a soft cloth and use the purple gloves to keep the sticky off your hands. Multiple coats builds a nice finish and allow dry time in between coats. You can use linseed oil also. There are two types generally. Boiled which will dry over time like tung oil and raw which will stay damp for along time. Another product is Pentetrol made by Flood products. The Pentetrol can be picked up at a local MAB Paint retailer. Apply just like tung oil or linseed oil. The first couple or three coats should be reduced with an oderless mineral spirits for deeper penatration and build up and that also allows for a faster dry time. Penetrol also can be applied to steel parts to keep rust from forming. Like garden tools, chains, etc. When the EPA reduced all the VOC's in the oil based paints in 2001 I would use Penetroll to allow the Paints to flow out to an even spray like shine while using a brush. The Penetroll would keep the working film wet longer to give that none stop even finish on woods or metal in direct sunlight. good oiling DD

[Miles Offshore]

i try and oil mine at least once a week or even every other week and although its a little extra work, (not really work) i think the oil is far and away the prettiest. I use those foam brushes to apply mine.

[gaffer]

NOT

I'm with Glenn on this one....Damn that is scarry, reel scary..

[DROPBACK]

Bill Pino is probably one of the best Teak Restorers I know. If he ever gets in from fishing, I'm sure he will chime in on here.

Karl

[Shutterbug]

Sikkens by Cetol Marine

I love/hate teak. I totally agree that oiled teak is the prettiest. I never could keep it looking the way I like and hated the time involved. So I opted for the above. A clear or darkened varnish type product. 2 coats maybe 3, I do mine about every other season, may have to touch up some spots periodically. Tickled with the way it looks although it in no way has that rich oiled appearance. Just don't get on the gelcoat.