Old 11-24-2007, 08:43 PM   #11
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Hubris,
I am on "A" dock at Pirates Cove, which is right in front of the tournament pavilion.

Do you have a slip lined up yet ???? let me know if you are looking for one, I might be able to send you in the right direction.

Look forward to the report on the windows, I was looking over mine again yesterday after reading the post trying to figure the best route.

Troy
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Old 11-25-2007, 07:48 AM   #12
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Alex, I wouldn"t recommend using any type of sealants for you windows that contains urethane. There is only one sealant you should use. It is either Dow Corning 795 Commercial grade building selant or a similar product also manufactured by GE sealants. You can pick them up at any caulking supply yard like Kenseal in folcroft or Marjam in NE philly etc... I'm sure window supply places will tell you they have " marine grade sealants " - B.S. Any urethane or xylene containing products will eventuallyfade ,split, and eventually revert to its original base state over long periods of exposure in extreme heat and U.V light. I have worked on numerous high- rises in 15 years and have reglazed, wetsealed, and caulked with all different types of sealants. For a couple of years all I did was reglaze ( metal to glass ) buildings for a glass co. and these buildings have plenty of movement. The products I suggested are expensive but the are the strongest and most flexible for what you are going to need them for. They will last you a long time, and stand up to the harsh marine environment. I have plenty of black so let me know or Jimmy and I can help you if you need it. Sika is not a good manufacturer of sealants although they market the shit out of it and convince the people that don't know that it's the best stuff out there. Although they do make pretty competitive concrete patching products. Meanwhile try not to get banned anymore, and stop making fun of the unions, you really hurt my feelings. Only you could get yourself banned from a fishing site .I laughed for days.
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Old 11-25-2007, 09:04 AM   #13
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jason,i was just talking about you the other day to the fasttalker! you know who i mean. he gets so busy talking about himself, he never told me how you were. thanks for the offer on those chaulks. if any one knows its you for sure.put a few tubes aside for me if you would. thanks. joe at holtz told me the same thing about the chaulk, they recommend you cover the sikaflex with trim to hide it from uv. it will break down. and one more question.......when your in the union as a glazer, do you have to squeeze the chaulk gun? or do they have a laborer do that for you? i'm going to print this page, i have a short memory!
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Old 11-25-2007, 07:01 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by JAYBIRD View Post
Meanwhile try not to get banned anymore, and stop making fun of the unions, you really hurt my feelings. Only you could get yourself banned from a fishing site .I laughed for days.

LOL LOL too funny. welcome aboard.
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Old 11-26-2007, 10:48 AM   #15
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hubris, i agree with Storm. diamond seaglaze is the Bomb. if you use SikaFlex caulking at all, as Trophy mentions, make sure you go with the type that has the UV protection, there are many different types of SikaFlex not all UV rated. actually, Ocean Yachts stopped using Sikaflex because of all the "bleeding" complaints by their owners and they now use a product mfgr'd by Bostik in massachusetts. i can get the name if you need it.

Trophy Sportfish, do you experience that black "bleeding" issue at all?
Trollman-

I had my side windows resealed two years ago. Don't remember the product that was used since I did not do the job myself, BUT I do have the "black bleeding" issue.....it's particularly worse when I use the Salt Away to wash the boat.

I would like the name of the Bostik product that Ocean uses.

Jaybird-

I would also be interested in any product that you would recommend beside the Dow Corning 795 as well since the bleeding issue has me concerned that the product that was used is breaking down and the leaks will return.

THanks!!
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Old 11-26-2007, 03:41 PM   #16
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just got back,

since today is another italian holiday, i drove out to lancaster to aluminum 2000. wow, was that ever worth it. they do it all. they have exactly what i want, are willing to do anything and can do anything. took a tour of the shop and saw their work. they build the frame, weld it, and powder coat it in any color to match. the visible profile is much smaller than i have now. they have all the boat color match's there but age is a consideration, so mine will be black. the finished product will look awesome from what i saw and very easy to install. i'm sure the other company's offer the same service but, since i could drive there it made my choice easy. they offer any shade of glass in tempered too. glad i went today........it will be the easiest modification i ever did on the boat. also the window is glazed in a neoprene gasket not chaulk. it will definately be waterproof, look great, and last. also, i'm going from the sliding windows to one fixed piece. thanks.
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Old 11-26-2007, 03:50 PM   #17
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Two things you may wish to consider.

1. The blackfin side windows have a slight bow to them in the forward area. If you go with glass, you can make them bow to fit but this will place stress on them and in rough conditions there is a high probability of breaking. Plexiglass is fine and Lexan better.

2. When you have the frames done, try to have them just a little wider than the originals to cover up any dings or imperfections that may result when removing the old frames.

Oh yeah, one other thing. There is a high likelihood of wood rot in the frame openings. This is fairly common. Give yourself enough time to completely dry the area and have some west handy.

Good luck.

Out of curiousity, what are they going to charge for the blackfin replacements?
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Old 11-26-2007, 04:32 PM   #18
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Two things you may wish to consider.

1. The blackfin side windows have a slight bow to them in the forward area. If you go with glass, you can make them bow to fit but this will place stress on them and in rough conditions there is a high probability of breaking. Plexiglass is fine and Lexan better.

2. When you have the frames done, try to have them just a little wider than the originals to cover up any dings or imperfections that may result when removing the old frames.

Oh yeah, one other thing. There is a high likelihood of wood rot in the frame openings. This is fairly common. Give yourself enough time to completely dry the area and have some west handy.

Good luck.

Out of curiousity, what are they going to charge for the blackfin replacements?
not on my 29 they arent bowed, flat as can be. they slide now, if there was a bow in the frame the rear glass would never slide forward. also i am going to have a fiberglass guy fix the glass to be perfect before i put new frame in. the width of the frame is the same as what came out. as for cost i'm sure it's Break Out Another Thousand, per side.
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Old 11-26-2007, 04:40 PM   #19
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I have sliders in mine also. The sliders are to the rear. The bow I am talking about is just near the front. May be different on the 29'. Mine is a 32'.
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Old 11-26-2007, 05:07 PM   #20
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yea, i've seen that on a 32. but the 29 doesn't have it. but if it did, this company will bend frame to match. they were bending while i was there.
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