Rybo Runner Rebuild

Spencer · 03-22-2007, 05:07 PM

I thought I would share my adventure in trying to rebuild a 1983 Rybo Runner any comments good or bad would be great.

This first picture is after gutting the boat and getting it inside was to repair all the holes left by removeing everything. First repair where the old Sea Drives used to be.

Now the second Sea Drive the purpose of cutting such a large hole was to check for bad wood and ease of repair.

I was lucky that there was no rot but the port side was a little wet so I left the holes open for a while to dry before repairing.

Logan9581 · 03-22-2007, 05:57 PM

Cool, I like seeing these! Keep us posted

Bay Fishin · 03-22-2007, 10:05 PM

Would love to see the progress pictures. Really love the Rybo Runner lines. Good Luck.

Spencer · 03-23-2007, 11:36 PM

On both the starboard and port sides there were these vents that did not go to anything plus bilge discharges I also wanted to close up.

I filled in these holes with marine plywood and wood dowels.

Next was the transom, I pluged all the holes with marine plywood and wood dowels.

otseg · 03-24-2007, 07:33 AM

Bob Davis made those fiberglass parts in Bradenton in Cal Connell's shop. Cal and Bob Fisher (Rybovitch) were old buddies from Detroit. The fiberglass parts were trucked to West Palm for rigging by Rybovitch. Nice to see that the plywood in a 20 + year old boat is still pretty good.

The stepped bottom used to eat up the sea-drives because the engines had trouble getting cooling water that was not aerated. Originally the steps were ventilated from the side but Fisher did not like the look. I filled in the hull and a new mold was built. Then the air boxes had to be made to relieve the suction. The air boxes need to be checked carefully for integrity. There have been a number of times where an owner has sold his Rybo, suffered remorse and bought one back. Its evident that when you get done you should get another 20 years out of that Rybo.

Spencer · 03-24-2007, 10:18 AM

It's funny you talked about the steps and the airation problems with these hulls. I have been talking to a person at Armstong Brackets about this same problem and he was telling me the same thing. I was told that the placement of the bracket was very important and that if I have not done this before to get someone who has because on this hull it has to be just right. It sounds like you know a few things about this hull, he also recomended to fill in the hollow steps to correct this problem which I don't understand what this would do because when running the one step is out of the water and the second would be drained and if the step was hollow or solid it would still create turbulance. If anyone has a comment please let me know also if I should fill the steps how? I thought to fill the steps with foam and glass the openings but I don't know if this would be correct. I will post pics of the steps soon.

Spencer · 03-24-2007, 10:40 AM

In these pictures you see the holes are so far outboard that I don't think filling them would make a differance.

Any Comments PLEASE

Foul Hooked · 03-24-2007, 11:22 AM

I have a 1987 and it does not have as much ventilation as yours. Looks to be about the same amount of ventilation in the intake (sides) but I only have one hole for the exhaust hole and it looks to be about like the inner most hole on yours. I wouldn't glass any holes on the steps until you've had a chance to run her. I played around with mine, and had them ones on the rear step glassed, then I got the glass work removed. Damn fine boats where the lines still hold up really well today. Rybovich only made about 90 of these things themselves before the mold started moving around to various shops.

otseg · 03-24-2007, 12:19 PM

I built the plugs for the Rybo Runner 25 years ago for Cal Connell, and because the molds were in limbo, reproduced the hull with a new deck and console again two years ago.

The vent boxes remedied the suction problem from Rybovitch modifying the hull side step vents because they wanted a traditional look. Don't be messing with what you have there.

Cal would be very happy to give some guidance to the custodian of one of his children. He has been a proponent of stepped hulls for many years. E-mail me for his contact info.

Give Brownie at Stainless Marine a call. They are supplying the Brackets for Typhoon Marine, the Company currently producing the boat.

Foul Hooked · 03-24-2007, 12:34 PM

The vent boxes remedied the suction problem from Rybovitch modifying the hull side step vents because they wanted a traditional look. Don't be messing with what you have there.

You got that right. When I got the rear vents glassed in, it felt like the transom was glued to the water.

03-23-2007, 11:36 PM	#4
Spencer I practice safe fishing Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Ocean City, MD Posts: 65 Credits: 1,639.9 Boat: Rybo Runner Home Port: Ocean City, MD Best Catch: Triple Grand Slam Occupation: I really don't know	More Pics On both the starboard and port sides there were these vents that did not go to anything plus bilge discharges I also wanted to close up. I filled in these holes with marine plywood and wood dowels. Next was the transom, I pluged all the holes with marine plywood and wood dowels.

03-24-2007, 10:40 AM	#7
Spencer I practice safe fishing Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Ocean City, MD Posts: 65 Credits: 1,639.9 Boat: Rybo Runner Home Port: Ocean City, MD Best Catch: Triple Grand Slam Occupation: I really don't know	Step Pics In these pictures you see the holes are so far outboard that I don't think filling them would make a differance. Any Comments PLEASE Last edited by Spencer; 03-24-2007 at 10:47 AM.

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03-22-2007, 05:57 PM	#2
Logan9581 Crab mustard is good Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bradenton, FL Posts: 670 Credits: 5,313.3 Boat: 27 Oceanmaster, 18 Mako Flats Home Port: Bradenton, FL	Cool, I like seeing these! Keep us posted

03-22-2007, 10:05 PM	#3
Bay Fishin Crab mustard is good Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Annapolis,Md Posts: 758 Credits: 1,682.1 Occupation: Tackle Ho, Boat Detailing	Would love to see the progress pictures. Really love the Rybo Runner lines. Good Luck.

03-24-2007, 07:33 AM	#5
otseg backlash king Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Washington, North Carolina Posts: 15 Credits: 1,426.9 Occupation: boat builder	Bob Davis made those fiberglass parts in Bradenton in Cal Connell's shop. Cal and Bob Fisher (Rybovitch) were old buddies from Detroit. The fiberglass parts were trucked to West Palm for rigging by Rybovitch. Nice to see that the plywood in a 20 + year old boat is still pretty good. The stepped bottom used to eat up the sea-drives because the engines had trouble getting cooling water that was not aerated. Originally the steps were ventilated from the side but Fisher did not like the look. I filled in the hull and a new mold was built. Then the air boxes had to be made to relieve the suction. The air boxes need to be checked carefully for integrity. There have been a number of times where an owner has sold his Rybo, suffered remorse and bought one back. Its evident that when you get done you should get another 20 years out of that Rybo.

03-24-2007, 10:18 AM	#6
Spencer I practice safe fishing Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Ocean City, MD Posts: 65 Credits: 1,639.9 Boat: Rybo Runner Home Port: Ocean City, MD Best Catch: Triple Grand Slam Occupation: I really don't know	It's funny you talked about the steps and the airation problems with these hulls. I have been talking to a person at Armstong Brackets about this same problem and he was telling me the same thing. I was told that the placement of the bracket was very important and that if I have not done this before to get someone who has because on this hull it has to be just right. It sounds like you know a few things about this hull, he also recomended to fill in the hollow steps to correct this problem which I don't understand what this would do because when running the one step is out of the water and the second would be drained and if the step was hollow or solid it would still create turbulance. If anyone has a comment please let me know also if I should fill the steps how? I thought to fill the steps with foam and glass the openings but I don't know if this would be correct. I will post pics of the steps soon.

03-24-2007, 11:22 AM	#8
Foul Hooked Crab mustard is good Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 805 Credits: 1,666.0	I have a 1987 and it does not have as much ventilation as yours. Looks to be about the same amount of ventilation in the intake (sides) but I only have one hole for the exhaust hole and it looks to be about like the inner most hole on yours. I wouldn't glass any holes on the steps until you've had a chance to run her. I played around with mine, and had them ones on the rear step glassed, then I got the glass work removed. Damn fine boats where the lines still hold up really well today. Rybovich only made about 90 of these things themselves before the mold started moving around to various shops.

03-24-2007, 12:19 PM	#9
otseg backlash king Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Washington, North Carolina Posts: 15 Credits: 1,426.9 Occupation: boat builder	I built the plugs for the Rybo Runner 25 years ago for Cal Connell, and because the molds were in limbo, reproduced the hull with a new deck and console again two years ago. The vent boxes remedied the suction problem from Rybovitch modifying the hull side step vents because they wanted a traditional look. Don't be messing with what you have there. Cal would be very happy to give some guidance to the custodian of one of his children. He has been a proponent of stepped hulls for many years. E-mail me for his contact info. Give Brownie at Stainless Marine a call. They are supplying the Brackets for Typhoon Marine, the Company currently producing the boat.

03-24-2007, 12:34 PM	#10
Foul Hooked Crab mustard is good Join Date: May 2005 Posts: 805 Credits: 1,666.0	The vent boxes remedied the suction problem from Rybovitch modifying the hull side step vents because they wanted a traditional look. Don't be messing with what you have there. You got that right. When I got the rear vents glassed in, it felt like the transom was glued to the water.