Looking good Rob, I still want to ck her out one day when Im in the area. If the fishing does not turn around soon Im going to bring her back to annapolis in the next few weeks.
I ended up converting mine to 30inch shafts and couldn't be happier, no cavitation and the motors are not touching the water when upright. Better control and fuel economy.
first off I like the look of these boats and there is one sitting now down the street in a storage lot.. kinda sucks seeing her sit..
when you tab these girls and you start your tab measurements from the chine back to your engines / center line bottom.. (it looks like a soft chine..) how far are you coming back down to your engines? (basic tab size?) and have you tried going with a longer tab instead of a wide tab?
and has anyone ever played around with adding like a 3" smart rail type reverse chine back towards the stern that would fair out or tapper out on the hull as it goes fwd? this would give you some natural bow down and a little stern lift but actually trap a little water back under the hull... just thinking here.. I had made a set for my old sea craft long ago and it had some glassed over mahogany ones I made and attached and it definitely improved the ride.
Last edited by Questsportfishing; 09-21-2010 at 04:31 AM.
Richard I came by the boat a couple of times and nobody was around. I saw the lower units were gone and I figured you were changing something up. I am glad to hear it worked out for you did you have to raise your motors to compensate for the length in shafts? I am still trying to decide on bracket placement for 25 or 30 inch shafts the pics are for 25" shaft location. Quest I am thinking of going with the QL Trim tabs I have been on a couple of boats with them and so far I am impressed with the way they work do you have any experience with them? likes/dislikes. My first thought was I don't know how they will perform on a stepped hull. This boat has never had tabs on it but it will now.
I mostly have used bennetts and a couple lenco set ups. another way to get more foot in the water instead of getting new lower units is to move the engines out apart some more just 1" instead of 13"s from center line go 14" if your bracket is strong and the v of the boat will almost lift the engines 1 1/4"s .. the big older hydro sport 27's were like that also.. the further out the higher the engine. or lower in your case.
We've got tabs on ours (Bennets) and they do help to both compensate horizontally and occassionally vertically - sometimes it's good to to lower the point of entry to help with a chop. These boats ride pretty flat, and the braket and pair of outboards don't affect trim appreciably -
If you need measurements we can give them to you.
One thing we did was that due to the trim tab locations, we ended up putting our ladder aft between the engines. We've had one (cut) incident with the props in eight years...
you should try to have the bracket both as a displacement and taper them up in a v it really helps with backing up also..
the water comes off her nice also. just something to think about and if you spread the dimensions out to a 44 1/2" ish bracket you can spread the motors and still use 25" shafts.
That's true Quest. We used Cal's bracket with the motors mounted on 26" centers. We did, however, still use 30" shafts per his (Cal's) recommendations No problems -
Hi Guys,
New to this site. Love the looks and functionability of the rybos. I have been looking for an older ocean master or rybo runner to fish and slowly update, and I came across a rainbow runner. Can anyone comment on this make? I know they are out of business and its based off the rybo mold? Was there any flaws? Is the boat durable like the above rybos? I have google searched and not coming up with much. Any pros or cons will help.
Thanks,
LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Reply With Quote