Decided to check the site to see what was new. Some nice pics of that rybo its been quite a while since my last post because i have been running my rybo all over fishing from port canaverl to miami. My 300 suzukis are still running great not one issue. my only suggestion is make sure you use large trim tabs the weight of the four strokes and a large transom livewell seems to make the bow bounce more than i like when its choppy, would like a more level ride. Hope to fish louisana for tuna this summer. We will see how she likes gulf fishing and the miss. river.
We hope everyone had a Merry Christmas and best wishes for a happy, healthy, and prosperous new year.
In looking at the pics of your (Spencer) boat it is definitely looking 'tip top'.You're headed on the right track and probably the best piece of advice we could give you is...don't turn forty! (hah). Anyway, below are some general comments and pics of things we did during our rebuild which may (or may not) be of interest/help to you on your fine project. So, in no special order, here it is.
In one of the earlier threads from '07, the gentleman from NC (otseg) made some very smart comments (this guy obviously knows his Rybos). One that sticks out is "...the airboxes need to be checked carefully for integrity...". Roger that! In june of 2003 we realized we had developed a small leak in our boat, but it was the darnest thing and took us a month to find it. When we did, sure enough, it was the forward port airbox, and was caused by tabbing of the glass. As the front boxes are pretty much in the air when you're moving, the slight drip occurred only when the boat was at rest. We cut a hole in the cabin liner and proceeded to effect repairs. As we have alot of Irishmen in Florida (with the last name of 'Murphy'), we turned around and did the same thing to the starboard side - you can't ever be too careful with these things - and installed hatches made by Viking Marine (out of Long Beach, Cal - not sure if they're still around). For anyone who has never seen the boxes, attached are some pics for your review that we took last week. Six years later everything seems to be OK and it's easy to check these areas out every now & then. The front boxes obviously take the worse pounding, if anyone has had any issues with the rear boxes they should comment - we have not.
A little aside - we use a u-lite as our cabin light. We put a 12' long cord on it so we can take it from its velcro strap mount and use it to look around these cutouts and other areas around the cab.
We flush mounted our transducer and put a bilge pump in front of it. This is the deepest part of the first step, with the point of the step being about 6-8" aft of the box.There's a pic of the transducer and the box we used to cover it. The bp switch is mounted on the aft wall of the cabin. As we have a long stem for the transducer, the box is about 8" high - a bit of a pain and we could probably reduce it. Anyway, after all that work & everything we still lose it! (the transducer) after about the mid 20 knot mark. Go figure...Any comments would be appreciated so this can be considered on the next go-around.
Our rigger did a really nice job on the wiring and we were supposed to devise some sort of valance panel to protect & cover it, but it never happened (you know how that goes...), and its been 7 years. Maybe next year...(hah)
Prior to our rebuild our batteries were up on the deck, in side compartments. Our rigger put them underneath, on the forward part of the cabin, nice & neat, lower center of gravity and all that, but we still wonder about this from a safety standpoint - our rigger hasn't had a good scare on a boat taking on water - and it takes alot of water before you know you even got a problem - If anyone has suggestions or comments on this would like to hear it...
We liked the Viking hatches so much we replaced the original Rybovich doors on the stern valance panel. They open things up and make service & inspection in this area much easier. Also, they don't rattle and vibrate (they have o-rings with three dog downs each). There are pics attached so you can see this area. We installed the 5 gal oil tanks on the two outboard areas (with oil fills on the gunwale), and the center section includes the fuel filters, trim tab reservouir, fresh water flushing attachments (we keep our boat in the water), and battery/engine electrical terminal blocks.
With regards to the power issue, the outfit that did the repower with 300hp HPDI Yamahas on hull no 88 is Tuppens Marine, just a few miles south from Birdsalls where you had your top done. I'm sure Bobby Birdsall knows them (they've been around a long time) and can provide you info, comments on them, and/or an introduction. I know we will be talking to them after the holidays about their experience. The owner of no88 was real happy with his.
Your pics show that you haven't put your bracket on the boat yet. We're not sure if Tuppens can also help you out on this, but you are prudent not to do anything until you're 100% sure about where to place the bracket - This forum has certainly pointed how critical that placement is - what's that old saying "measure twice, cut once" -
Well that's enough for one thread. Next time we'll post some pics of other Rybo R's and maybe yak some more about engine & power choices. Anyway, thank you a bunch Spencer for inspiring us to get off our duffs and start working on our boat again. Oh, and keep the pics coming. We hope some of the other guys would post pics of their boats!
Well, just spoke to Jay at Tuppens Marine regarding those Yamaha 300 HPDI's and the answer is - nyet - leftover units are no longer around. They tried to get some for another client before the Holidays and were unsuccessful. Too bad - they looked sharp on hull no 88. Also, according to Jay,they only ran them about an hour so no performance specs.
Anyway, below is an unscientific matrix of engine/performance specs based on this forum. We threw in the Dusky w/E-tecs & Suzuk's for comparison as well as a Contender 33T w/250 4 strk Yamahas (350's would absolutely be wretched excess although we do have alot of sick people down here). On the Evinrude performance website it's interesting to note that they only had 50 & 75 gl of fuel & two guys -650 lbs - (those are some big dudes!). For the Yamaha 4 strks, the 33T more approximates our Rybos than the 31's with a beam of 9'8" and dry weight of 6600 lbs. They tested w/200 gals fuel & 2 people.We are told that a tower will cost about 10% efficiency and top end. How bout it Billfish, does your boat have a tower? Our boat's numbers are w/2 people, gear, and 150 gals fuel.
Owner-------- engine--------tower----RPM-----speed -----GPH -------MPG------ top
all in statute miles
The E-Tecs are somewhat disappointing (we thought they'd do better), this boat had no tower & relatively light load, but we have heard good things about them overall. We're told by another dealer that Yamaha will be showing their new 300hp 4 strk (V6, 4.2 liter) at the Miami boatshow with a weight of about 560 lbs. (about 40 lbs lighter than the 250 or Suzuks 300's). Should be interesting. In the meanwhile our EFI's are looking pretty good when you consider it would cost us about 30 some large (w/trade-ins) to convert to newer engines (capt donk is pretty much on the money) with marginally better performance. That's alot of hamburger... see you at the boat show.
Hey guys beautiful rybos, I just got finished with mine and I am having a few issues i hope you can answer. When im running her, I am over heating on the starboard motor and I have some flex on the bow in the gunnels and also spider crack on the bow toward the water line. anyone have any clue what I can do about these problems here are some pics she just left the warehouse about a month ago.
Hey there hatteras45 - your boat looks very nice. Is this one of Danny's boats - He was building in the nineties out of Royal Palm Beach -
How long have you had your boat. Are these 'new' issues?
how much flex from your gunnels on the bow? you have alot of rodholders on the bow but you shouldn't have flex. If so, just really the smallest, smallest amount (1/2" or so). What happens when you walk on it and jump up and down? Is it soft? It looks like your boat was just refinished so would assume if you had rot you or your refinisher would have known - If no rot this can be stiffened from below.
Spidercracks on hull can come from impacting something while running. Again how big? how many, vertical, horizontal, star pattern (this is usually the impact)? We've had a few 'pet' spidercracks on our boat (star & horizontal/longitudal) both above and below the waterline for years. Finally we fixed the below waterline when we soda blasted our boat this past summer), so if they are small and shallow, this may not be a big deal. If they are large and deep, you need to fix! If your hull was also recently refinished were the spidercraks there before?
There have been a few people comment on this (and other) forums regarding engine overheating. We can't help you there.
To remedy the flexing & cracks, you might want to consider having more knee braces installed under the gunnel cap.
I know I need to on my Formula, as I get some flex, and starting to see some slight cracks near the deck/hull joint. I can feel the gunnel flexing when walking on it, and I am pretty sure they are all tied together - ie; coming off the back of a wave into the next one, bow digs in, water pressure pushes hull sides in, and the gunnel cap flexes up (if it flexes down, it prob will flex up).
Knee braces will just tie everything together & firm it all up. I've seen them spaced as close 24" on centers, and it looks like you have some pretty wide spaces between yours (assuming the bump outs are at least tied into the cap).
Spencer - What's cookin' - Been out for awhile doing other things but thought we'ed check up on you and see if anything is going on.
Attached are a couple of shots to keep you going of a guy's boat here in Florida. His name is Jamie and he's in the 'biz', with his shop at Cracker Boys here in Palm Beach. Like you he's waiting on the power issue but has done a beautiful job on his Rybo's hull & interior. He's got a cabin boat - not too many of these - painted a light green. The longer you look at it the prettier it gets. It's really 'tip top'. He gets to work on alot of big boats including quite a few larger Rybo's.
I got a little time to do some painting so I took a crack at the bracket. First primer then a little Fighting Lady Yellow then a mockup to see how it will look.
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