If your going to repower with ETEC's and are worried about the cooling, you can order larger scoop screens to intall on the gearcase. They are under 15.00 for a set. We install them on all step hull bracket boats that look like they may have a problem getteing water.
Thanks for all the help!! this is great that there is a place like this to share all kinds of info and people willing to share. I have never taken on a project like this before but I am getting alot of great info from friends and here at SFC. I am glad to hear not to fill in the steps, besides I like the look (something different) and thats one less thing to do on a very long list. One question I do have is I was thinking on pluming all discharges through the steps to make it look very clean ie. no visable holes in hull. I was thinking if I put all drains on top of the step toward the outboard side so they all would be above the waterline and also would use the thru hulls with flappers so not to get any backflow. I did talk to Stainless Marine to a Daryle Stiener? anyway he said I had to make a template do to the fact the transom has a radius or crown but I will call them back and speak to Brownie.
I threw some camber into the new Typhoon Transom in both directions, up and down and in plan view. Your boat, the transom has camber only in plan view. It is prudent of Stainless Marine to recognize that this could be different.
When you are making repairs to fiberglass the most important step is the surface preparation. Grind, grind, grind. You should grind just before you do your secondary bond. It's called energizing the surface. This is especially important with the Rybos as they were made with a DCDP blend polyester that is not great for secondary bonds. There is a bonding agent called Ad-Prime that you can use to get a good bond to old laminate with Isothalic polyester or Vinyl Ester resin in critical areas if you are not using epoxy.
I would never use an Orthothalic Polyester resin, known as GP (general purpose) for repair work.
Oh and GRIND again that seems like all I have done to this thing I cant believe how much glass is in the transom of this thing. I am working with west system epoxy and there fillers.
In this pic I faired the repairs because I thought it be best to have the filler under the glass not on top.
After grinding AGAIN I put 2 layers of biaxle across the transom and forward about 2 feet.
Before sanding, rub baby powder (corn starch based) over your exposed skin. It greatly reduces the itch. I prefer the lavender scent myself. Shower with warm water. The sadist that suggests cold water is the same one that invented grinding fiberglass. Keep a dedicated bar of soap wet so its goopy and rub that over the area that itches. It picks up the glass stuck in your skin and then washes off.
Meditation, thereby putting your Psyche in a better place, is worth a try also.
Hey there big guy, looks like you're really making progress on the old girl. You have no idea how much I miss this boat, but I see already she's in good hands. We down full time, starting this month, so I'll be avialable to offer an extra hand if needed. I still have the pictures for you, when I started on her, to fully rigged, and the sinking. Everything really looks good
How are you doing Jay have not heard from you for a while. The boat has been on hold for the summer do to work and fishing but plan on getting back to it in Oct. I will try to post some updated pictures at this point the hull is faired and primed. I called Jimmy Swagler to sand blast the bottom maybe next week or two then start on the console and interior. I still hope to have it ready for next summer so any free time you have would be greatly appreciated. I am starting to get info and pricing on engines, electronics, t-top etc.. I look forward to getting back to it and hope to see you soon.
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. I look forward to getting back to it and hope to see you soon.