pelican's out...

[jawz12]

pulled the pelican out for the season...she's been ran hard since i healed up from surgery...


here's a little advice:

do yourselves a favor - if you're pushing a gas powered sterndrive or inboard boat-get i the habit of pulling the plugs and doing a compression test-reason being:first,it allows you to inspect the plugs for signs of water intrusion.look for rust stained,or snow white plugs-this is an indication of water intrusion.
second: it allows you to get an idea of the general health of the engine.

exhaust systems are the weak link on these engines-manifolds and rises have a finite life-approx 5yrs.what occurs,is the water passages erode,allowing water to enter the engine via the exhaust valves.this,destroys the exhaust valves,and the result is an engine with low or no compression in the effected cylinders.if you're seeing "steam" from the "breather" hoses to the flame arrester,this is a good indication of water in the engine.if you're seeing water in the oil,it's too late...
fluishing will not extend the life of exhaust system parts...storing an engine "dry" will speed up the process...

"winterize" the engine by running it to temp first,then,compression testing,oil and filter change,run it again,till it reaches normal operating temp-drain the block and the manifolds-raw water cooled engines only,and then fog the motor while you're running it on non toxic-pink antifreeze-shut it down when you see the exhaust discharge pink...
do not use green antfreeze !!!

if you've got a sterndrive-it needs to be pulled and serviced-every year !! stern drives get a bad rap-mostly because owners fail to perform normal maintance...PULL THE DRIVE !!! lube the splines on the input shaft with "spline lube" lube the u-joints and the gimbal bearing...most of the newer drives have sealed u-joints.check the bellows-if they're more than 5yrs old,replace them...water pumps-the merc alpha drives have a water pump in the lower unit,the bravo drives do not,same deal with the volvo's...water pump replacements,on the alpha drives is the same as outboards...

my sea craft is stern drive powered - i practice what i preach...it has 347hrs in the 3 seasons i've ran it 347 trouble free hours...that rig's been everywhere from the lindenkohl canyon(90nm from 2cm bouy) to the poormans(74nm from 2cm bouy)...nothing wrong with stern drive power,if,it's maintaned properly...i change the oil every 40hrs,and,change the fuel filters too.i carry a spare serpentine belt fuel filters, a main,and a fuel pump relay-i also carry a spare prop and hub kit...

follow good maintance practices...

[Tuna Meltdown]

pulled the pelican out for the season...she's been ran hard since i healed up from surgery...


here's a little advice:

do yourselves a favor - if you're pushing a gas powered sterndrive or inboard boat-get i the habit of pulling the plugs and doing a compression test-reason being:first,it allows you to inspect the plugs for signs of water intrusion.look for rust stained,or snow white plugs-this is an indication of water intrusion.
second: it allows you to get an idea of the general health of the engine.

exhaust systems are the weak link on these engines-manifolds and rises have a finite life-approx 5yrs.what occurs,is the water passages erode,allowing water to enter the engine via the exhaust valves.this,destroys the exhaust valves,and the result is an engine with low or no compression in the effected cylinders.if you're seeing "steam" from the "breather" hoses to the flame arrester,this is a good indication of water in the engine.if you're seeing water in the oil,it's too late...
fluishing will not extend the life of exhaust system parts...storing an engine "dry" will speed up the process...

"winterize" the engine by running it to temp first,then,compression testing,oil and filter change,run it again,till it reaches normal operating temp-drain the block and the manifolds-raw water cooled engines only,and then fog the motor while you're running it on non toxic-pink antifreeze-shut it down when you see the exhaust discharge pink...
do not use green antfreeze !!!

if you've got a sterndrive-it needs to be pulled and serviced-every year !! stern drives get a bad rap-mostly because owners fail to perform normal maintance...PULL THE DRIVE !!! lube the splines on the input shaft with "spline lube" lube the u-joints and the gimbal bearing...most of the newer drives have sealed u-joints.check the bellows-if they're more than 5yrs old,replace them...water pumps-the merc alpha drives have a water pump in the lower unit,the bravo drives do not,same deal with the volvo's...water pump replacements,on the alpha drives is the same as outboards...

my sea craft is stern drive powered - i practice what i preach...it has 347hrs in the 3 seasons i've ran it 347 trouble free hours...that rig's been everywhere from the lindenkohl canyon(90nm from 2cm bouy) to the poormans(74nm from 2cm bouy)...nothing wrong with stern drive power,if,it's maintaned properly...i change the oil every 40hrs,and,change the fuel filters too.i carry a spare serpentine belt fuel filters, a main,and a fuel pump relay-i also carry a spare prop and hub kit...

follow good maintance practices...

Awsome looking boat Jaws. I just bought a 1976 23' inboard and can't wait for spring.

[jawz12]

Awsome looking boat Jaws. I just bought a 1976 23' inboard and can't wait for spring.

nice lookin' rig you got there...i'm a big fan of the inboard's-i believe they have the best ride-low center of gravity...

good luck with your new rig

[gerard]

nice boat jaws. I have a 1978 seacraft 23 savage inboard. Repowering this winter with a 6.0 crusader 330 hp.

[pellicot]

Tuna meltdown nice boat, looks like a Hyrdasports Vector T Top . Enjoy

[Tuna Meltdown]

Tuna meltdown nice boat, looks like a Hyrdasports Vector T Top . Enjoy

It is. Good eye! Came off my boss's 2004 24' Vector. Believe it or not it fits the 1976 SeaCraft like a glove! I had it given to me and it was better than the existing t-top so it was a no brainer. Come on April!