Palm Beach

[clunan1]

Hey guys, I recently picked up a Palm Beach. This boat needs the teak refinished. So, how would you refinish the bow rail, inner **** pit rail, teak transom etc..... Its all been varnished, and sealed because it's peeling off everywhere. So, would you oil it, which would turn into a monthly project...or would you go back with some kind of sealant/varnish???? It's a cold molded boat so I'm thinking of ways to redo the interior wood, transom, teak etc...

[Fortunate One]

Post some pictures of the condition of the teak.

[billschwabe]

Maybe I'm not traditional enough but I can't stand to spend free time sanding and varnishing on the days pretty enough to varnish, I'd much rather be fishing! Any external teak I would sand back to bare wood, apply several coats of epoxy and finish with a good dose of clear UV polyurethane. That's what the major fighting chair makers do and it usually lasts 5 or more years before you lightly ssand and apply another coat of clear then you're good for another 5 years or so. It takes a little more work to start with but much less later on.

[clunan1]

From the pics its hard to tell much about the condition of the teak. Try to get some better ones soon.

[Sportsman 45]

I agree with Bill,

If you don't want to spend fishing time doing varnish, epoxy is the long term fix.

[seapower]

I just had the same conversation with a boat builder friend of mine today. My Bertram has teak deck's in the cockpit. I was thinking about using an epoxy (truck bedliner) because of the lack of maintainence needed. I know commercial guy's that have done it and swear by it. His suggestion was to sand it down to rough grain and use a product (the name escaped him) that brings it back to looking new. From that point on just use bleach to get rid of the grey (oxidation???), from that point on. I was concerned that the inherent oil that is in teak would cause "epoxy" to pop off over time. Keep the suggestion's coming please. I will say that a nice teak deck does look good and the non-slip properties of the wood work well too. Just don't want to be chained down by continuos maintainence myself. Thank's, Frank

[clunan1]

The epoxy and polyurethane are good ideas. But what brands/products do you use? Beng that were dealing with wood, could you get a basic epoxy and polyurethane from Home Depot? Or, do we still need to go with marine products that cost 3 times as much???

[billschwabe]

The epoxy and polyurethane are good ideas. But what brands/products do you use? Beng that were dealing with wood, could you get a basic epoxy and polyurethane from Home Depot? Or, do we still need to go with marine products that cost 3 times as much???

I personally wouldn't trust the durability of a home supply product in the marine environment, no matter what their claims. Homes don't suffer near the caustic chemicals, salt and sun exposure and that's the reason marine products are more expensive, they ARE better!

For the epoxy I prefer West systems 105 resin/207 special clear. It cures fast and you can brush/roll five cats in a days time to get your buildup. Sand that out and then I start spraying/brushing the clear UV polyurethane. Remember, the more of this you apply, the thicker and longer lasting the finish will be. I usually put at least 5-10 coats on, more if I have time. Years later, the outer coat or two is all that should be drgraded by the sun and you just need to scuff it smooth and put on a couple more. I've used every major brand, Alexseal, Awl-Grip and Imron and to be quite honest, I can't tell much difference between them.

Frank, I don't think I've ever seen anyone put a coating over a teak deck that held up. The caulk joints between strips wouldn't hold the epoxy at all and I imagine it would start flaking in short order. If you wanted to make that deck really durable PLEASE don't use a truck bed liner! I've seen a lot of guys try to cheap out and it doesn't last a season before it starts coming up in chunks. It will be some work but I'd take up that teak (which is probably wafer thin anyway?) and after filling the holes, use Phillyclad for the deck. It's what the headboat guys have used for years and you know the kind of abuse they go through! I'm not sure where to get it but I can find out if you'd like.
Bill

[clunan1]

Bill, with teak having a little flex, how does the Phillyclad hold up? Does it give a little or harden like cement? I assume it comes in clear, right? Sorry for all the questions, it's my first cold molded boat. And there's a lot of wood to take care of.

[billschwabe]

Bill, with teak having a little flex, how does the Phillyclad hold up? Does it give a little or harden like cement? I assume it comes in clear, right? Sorry for all the questions, it's my first cold molded boat. And there's a lot of wood to take care of.

No, I only meant the Phillyclad for non-skid decking, I would not try putting it over raw teak and I've never seen a clear, just colored versions. For most recreational use, Alexseal or Awl-Grip painted non-skid does just fine and will give years of good service but for really heavy duty like headboats, that Phillyclad seems to hold up even better to the abuse. Sorry for the confusion! I was suggesting Frank tear up the old teak decks and go back with painted since he (and I) both like low maintenance. IF I had external teak like toe rails, trim, helm pods, 1/2 rounds and chairs, I do the epoxy/UV polyurethane. The major chair makers all told me that's exactly what they do and it does work!