Need help with my sink to cooler project

[Capt.Troy Crane]

Looking good Giant.

We use a product called Adtech to cover the weave in the cloth and give you a smoothe finish after you put the glass on. You can brush or roll it right over the glass or use a squeegee, after it gets tacky to save yourself a sanding step.It fills the pin holes and gives you a rock solid water tight seal. Most of the boat builders use it to cover the glass, really easy to use and cures pretty quick and is self leveling. You just need to sand it withing 24 hours cause it gets HARD !!Great product.

Good luck,
Troy

[giantfan]

Would I use the Adtech before or after I do the fairing?

[Capt.Troy Crane]

Do all your fairing and glass work and then apply the adtech last. It really gives you a smooth coat and totally waterproofs the box, it's some great stuff, it really covers the weave in the cloth and gives it a nice finish.

Like I said before, you can apply it as your glass tacks up, it doesn't have to be dry. That way you don't have to sand the glass before you coat it with the adtech and it will all kick off and dry at the same time.

Then you can sand it down as smooth as you want it and then prime and paint it.
As I said before, just make sure you sand the adtech within 24hours or it will be rock hard and not much fun to sand.

Good luck,
Troy

[pitch bait]

Try to dye your resin to help see the air. what kind of resin are you yousing? polyester, ortholeser, vynalester, epoxy?

Thanks for the tip Bobby.... good idea.

So far so good, it's taking about as much work as I expected, but I haven't got to the fiberglass yet. I have never worked with fiberglass so I really don't know what to expect.

As far as the fiberglass and gelcoat work is concerned.... I must admit that I am a little intimidated but "baptism by fire" is my middle name

I'm sure that no matter how bad I screw up.... it's nothing that a lot of sanding won't take care of.

[giantfan]

My buddy had this laying around his shop and gave it to me.

What do you think? Is it OK to use?

[clt_capt]

My buddy had this laying around his shop and gave it to me.

What do you think? Is it OK to use?

Do you see on the can where it says Waxed? What that means is that styrene wax is added to keep the outside from remaining tacky.

That will be a problem if you can't get all of the layers in before the resin sets - it also means that you will need to sand the surface well before you begin to fair it.

You would probably be better off getting a gallon of "Laminating Resin" is you are going to use Polyester.

It doesn't have the wax in it, so you will not need to sand between layers...

[giantfan]

Thank you so much for all of your help.... above and beyond that's for sure.

There sure is a lot more to this then I thought.

It is amazing how clueless I am when it comes to this kind of stuff.

The only time I deal with fiberglass is when I call my fiberglass guy to come and do a shower base or a deck....

Those fumes must be pretty bad.... every one of the guys that I have ever used to do pans or decks has been a little off

I figured if they can do it.... I can do it.

I am going to be wearing a respriator with out a doubt.

Thanks again,

Ted

[clt_capt]

Those fumes must be pretty bad.... every one of the guys that I have ever used to do pans or decks has been a little off

I figured if they can do it.... I can do it.

I am going to be wearing a respriator with out a doubt.

For polyester - the fumes are bad news - just like sniffing Model airplane glue (styrene) - Definitely wear a respirator rated for Organic Hazards. Wear gloves...

[Agitated88]

Thank you so much for all of your help.... above and beyond that's for sure.
I am going to be wearing a respriator with out a doubt.
Thanks again,
Ted

I'd assume the State of New Jersey knows this as well...

[Storm]

You already did a great job with the corners fillets. For future reference, I can offer you this little hint. This is an idea that I stole from "The Gougeon Brothers On Boat Construction."

I make a tool for filleting from a 2" chip brush (paint brush) handle and polyethylene sheet or piece of a fish tote. I prefer the thinner, more pliable polyethylene sheet to the heavier fish tote material. Any scrap plastic will work. Gougeon suggests using plastic coffee can covers. The covers might tend to be a tad flimsy.

I drill different size discs from the plastic sheet with a hole saw and then staple the circles to chip brush handles. I use a small pneumatic stapler. You might need small screws or nails instead.

The paint brush is easy to remove from the handle because it's usually attached with small brads. It pops off with a small screwdriver. At least, I've found this to be the case with the cheap chip brushes.

This arrangement allows for good control when making the fillets. Also, it's a cinch to remove the putty from the plastic. I always like to have a spare or two handy so I don't have to stop working to clean the tool too often. It's also easier to clean the putty from the plastic after the putty cures. The other advantage to this tool is that you can customize the fillet size by drilling whatever circle size that you desire. A good size range would be 1" to 1-1/2".

Sometimes I buy cheap plastic putty knives and sand them to the desired radius with my disc sander. Although, I've found it's easier to make a more uniform radius using the hole saw method and plastic sheet.

Storm