All too often, boaters assume that automatic bilge pumps and their float switches are a fool-proof automatic emergency system that needs no attention. But problems with bilge pumps and float switches have sunk many a boat over the years and caused expensive damage even on boats that haven't flooded.
What can go wrong, and why should you make a habit of checking your bilge pumps regularly? First, "automatic" pumps aren't really automatic -- they depend upon a switch that closes a circuit when water rises above a certain level. The problem is that debris can get into your bilge, slosh or float around, and get lodged in the switch or pump intake. So check your switches to make sure they are clean and can move freely (and, of course, that the pump comes on as it should).
Another common danger is that bilge pumps often exit through a fitting that is close to the waterline but of necessity is not equipped with a seacock. If the hose between the pump and the through hull comes off, not only will the pump discharge bilge water back into the boat, but if the through hull goes below the water, it can let in enough water to sink the boat.
Finally, the wiring for bilge pumps and switches has to be high and dry at all times, since it is a live circuit. A current leak into the bilge water can set up a major electrolysis problem that turns underwater metals such as the rudder, props, and shafts into Swiss cheese.
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