don't skip the steps i gave you....throwing parts at it,will eventually fix it,but how far do ya' wanna go....follow the steps i gave you,you will find your problem......Originally Posted by johnebquick
don't skip the steps i gave you....throwing parts at it,will eventually fix it,but how far do ya' wanna go....follow the steps i gave you,you will find your problem......Originally Posted by johnebquick
OK I guess I'm getting ahead of myself. I have a remote tank that came with the boat, but it has old gas in it along with old fittings. How do I know it is ok before I switch tanks? Is there a way to test this remote tank to make sure it is good before I do the swap and take it out again. I will defenetly replace the fuel in the remote tank. Is there anything else I should do?
Just added a pic to my profile. Not sure if it will post when I am on message board. How do you add a pic so when you post it will show ?
ok...Originally Posted by johnebquick
i shouldn't tell you this,but...
get an assistant to operate the boat,run the engine with the bucket off-that's the cowling....get a can or "starting fluid" run the engine...when it starts to load up-give it a shot of starting fluid in the air box...if it picks up and runs like hell...the problem is fuel-or fuel delivery...if it runs the same,it's ignition....9 out of 10 times it's fuel or fuel delivery...
that's why i told you to use a remote tank...get it ??? the whole idea is to diagnose your problem,before you start spending money...
using the remote tank,it rules out the fuel delivery system...
test the remote tank....pull the outlet off the primer ball...put your thumb over the end...squeeze the ball-do you feel pressure out ??? now same trick,a little different,squeeze the ball-leave your thumb off-untill you squeeze the ball flat-don't release it-put your thumb over it,do you feel it suck ??? if you answere "yes" to the above...it's ok...run the engine on that tank....see if the problem goes away.....
follow the steps i outlined-there's no short cut !!! follow them !!!
OK, I just cleaned out the remote tank and boy did I get a lot of junk out of it. The fuel wasn't even clear, It was dark in color. flushed it out with some good fuel I just bought for my lawn tractor. I also did the test you wanted me to do. Good preasure / Good suction. I will add some new fuel when I go to test it. Thanks for helping me Jawz12. It is really apperciated! ! ! !
I don't know what was in the remote tank but I dropped a new guage/cap in it and two days time it had eaten and corroded the float shaft. WOW.
I took her out today arround 11:30. Hard to start at the dock. Stalled once dockside. Ran her at different speeds and it happened at different speeds. Still was the worst at high speed. Med and low may or may not happen, High always happens. It's more like a miss now instead of a stall. So now I can rule out fuel tank and lines. Used spare tank and it still happened. I did notice when starting dockside, It would pop, almost like you had a plug completely out and turned over the moter. When running I tried to choke moter when it chugged. Still stalled. That rules out carb as per Jawz12. also tried 2 + 2 when it chugged, No change. So what does that leave? I have already changed plugs. Bad Wire, Power pack, Wire ??? And whats my next step?
Here is a pic of oil comming from one of the cyl. Could this be from the cyl. not firing. And is sthis my problem spot to look at
Last edited by Jer; 07-23-2006 at 05:39 PM. Reason: made the picture smaller
Pulled all wires and did a compression test on all 4 cyl. Cyl#1----126 Cyl#2----127 Cyl#3----132 Cyl#4----134. All 4 are within 5% of each other so I think I can say that there is no compression problem. Now we are down to Power pack at 109.95, plug wires 39.95, or a coil at 17.99 ea. Coils and wires are cheap enough that I will replace all four coils and put new wires on them. The boat sat for two years before I bought it so this is not a bad Idea anyway. Not sure how to test the power pack. Do you think I'm on the right track?