Hey JAWZ! - Bottom Paint ?

[Capt-D]

Ok,

Here's the backstory:

I bought a small 20'cc last year to play around in the rivers and the CB. It had previously been painted (once, as it is a 1997 boat) and subsequently sat on the trailer for 3 years. Apparently the one paint job was not enough because he did have barnacle growth that had been knocked off prior to me buying the boat. the fist thing I did was block it off of the trailer and sand (60-80 grit via orbital sanders) the entire bottom of the boat knocking off the remaining residue and "prepping it to repaint. In addition I had to readjust the waterline, by prepping with sanding the gel coat and repainting the bottom paint higher than it was incorrectly place originally. After all that work, I repaint against my better judgement the west marine cpp bottom paint instead of using micron csc. (I did not prime, because the can said that I did not need to) When I finished, the job (i thought) looked good.

The boat spent the majority of last season in the water with the exception of pulling it to take it on a couple trips.

When I pulled the boat for the winter the paint job look horrible. The paint was not adhered to the areas where I had readjusted the waterline, as well as it had sluffed off in a couple of other spots.

Question:

What did I do wrong(wrong paint, process, no priming?), and how do I change it to where I don't have to repaint prior to every season? It is a pain in the ass to get it blocked off of the trailer every season. I don't mind spending the money on better paint or some sorta primer, but I don't want to have to keep doing this! I need the specific materials and steps of the process so I can get it right this time. I do like the idea in your other post with the indicator layer of "blue hardpaint", but I need specifics (brand and process).

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

-D

[budddavid]

Capt-D,
I don't have a masters on the subject but I have spent a fair amount of time working with fiberglass boats and one of the biggest suggestions I can make is to use a barrier coat before applying bottom paint. As long as you have to strip the old bottom paint off from last season, it would be very wise to spend the 80 or so dollars on barrier coat and the couple of days required for set up and avoid hassles down the road. Additionally the barrier coat bonds very well to freshly sanded gelcoat and will provide the perfect primer for your bottom paint of choice (mine would be some sort of ablative). Good luck and sorry to hear about your head ache.

[jawz12]

Ok,

Here's the backstory:

I bought a small 20'cc last year to play around in the rivers and the CB. It had previously been painted (once, as it is a 1997 boat) and subsequently sat on the trailer for 3 years. Apparently the one paint job was not enough because he did have barnacle growth that had been knocked off prior to me buying the boat. the fist thing I did was block it off of the trailer and sand (60-80 grit via orbital sanders) the entire bottom of the boat knocking off the remaining residue and "prepping it to repaint. In addition I had to readjust the waterline, by prepping with sanding the gel coat and repainting the bottom paint higher than it was incorrectly place originally. After all that work, I repaint against my better judgement the west marine cpp bottom paint instead of using micron csc. (I did not prime, because the can said that I did not need to) When I finished, the job (i thought) looked good.

The boat spent the majority of last season in the water with the exception of pulling it to take it on a couple trips.

When I pulled the boat for the winter the paint job look horrible. The paint was not adhered to the areas where I had readjusted the waterline, as well as it had sluffed off in a couple of other spots.

Question:

What did I do wrong(wrong paint, process, no priming?), and how do I change it to where I don't have to repaint prior to every season? It is a pain in the ass to get it blocked off of the trailer every season. I don't mind spending the money on better paint or some sorta primer, but I don't want to have to keep doing this! I need the specific materials and steps of the process so I can get it right this time. I do like the idea in your other post with the indicator layer of "blue hardpaint", but I need specifics (brand and process).

THANKS IN ADVANCE!

-D

allright there my strong brother...
paint probably popped off because the hull wasn't dewaxed...you gotta dewax the hull before anything else takes place...after it's dewaxed and solvent washed you're ready to go...if you're smart you'll use the inter protec 200oe epoxy...this stuff can be left for 2 weeks before it has to be sanded...after the epoxy kicks,i use the cheapest "hard" bottom paint...followed by either micron csc or pettit hydracoat....you should get a season out of each coat ...
do yourself a favor-don't buy the cheap stuff...stick with the good ablative paint....

[RUGGERDUDE]

Good thread for us do-it-yourselfers! Jawz what is the proper procedure for de-waxing? Also, I painted my bottom last year with CSC. Except for a couple of spots, the paint looks good. Should I repaint the whole bottom or just touch-up?

Thanks for your help!

Will

[jawz12]

Good thread for us do-it-yourselfers! Jawz what is the proper procedure for de-waxing? Also, I painted my bottom last year with CSC. Except for a couple of spots, the paint looks good. Should I repaint the whole bottom or just touch-up?

Thanks for your help!

Will

how many coats did you put on??? did you use a "tell coat"???
dewaxing...i like the interlux 202 solvent wash...be sure to use 2 seperate towells...one to apply the solvent and the other to wipe it off....
if you applied a few coats,then just touch up the spots-other wise paint it again.....

[Finesse]

I repaint against my better judgement the west marine cpp bottom paint

I thought I read somewhere that West CPP and PCA are either re-labeled Pettit Ablatives or manufactured by Pettit for West Marine??

[Capt-D]

I thought I read somewhere that West CPP and PCA are either re-labeled Pettit Ablatives or manufactured by Pettit for West Marine??

I dont know wheter that's true or not, but from this point on I'm using Micron csc!

[Capt-D]

all-right there my strong brother...
paint probably popped off because the hull wasn't dewaxed...you gotta dewax the hull before anything else takes place...after it's dewaxed and solvent washed you're ready to go...if you're smart you'll use the inter protec 200oe epoxy...this stuff can be left for 2 weeks before it has to be sanded...after the epoxy kicks,i use the cheapest "hard" bottom paint...followed by either micron csc or pettit hydracoat....you should get a season out of each coat ...
do yourself a favor-don't buy the cheap stuff...stick with the good ablative paint....

Jimmy man,

I appreciate it by I need a play by play!

Dewaxing and solvent wash, two steps or one?

interprotec 200oe epoxy, do i have to wait two weeks before applying the tell coat, or is that the longest to wait to paint the tell coat? Do I need to re-sand entirely and than apply the epoxy, or can I still have some residual of the original bottom paint before applying the epoxy.

I need to no what to use for the tell coat. You said cheap hard paint? tell me what to get and that's what I'll use!

THANKS MAN !

-D

[jawz12]

dewaxing solvent wash...same thing....1 towell to apply the dewax solventand a different towell to wipe it off....change towelles frequently....
cheap hard bottom paint...use the cheap crap...i think boaters world has some cheap hard paint for like $50 pergallon...use that...that's what i mean when i say cheap hard bottom paint....
inter protect 2000e....as soon as it dries to the touch apply the cheap hard paint...you don't have to sand unless you left it uncovered for 2 weeks....
how's that???? now remember,the micron csc or the micron extra...very good stuff !!!!
epoxy...DO NOT APPLY EPOXY BARRIER COAT OVER ANY BOTTOM PAINT !!! nothing will stick to bottom paint,except more bottom paint....the bottom needs to be clean and free of bottom paint residue.....

[Capt-D]

Will this work for the tell coat?

Description:

BottomShield antifouling paint gives you a clean hull without cleaning out your wallet. Its tough, modified-epoxy base dries to a hard finish that withstands a full season of use and abuse on fiberglass, wood or steel hulls. Designed for low-to-moderate fouling waters, its loading of cuprous oxide will keep your hull smooth and fast right through the season.