Hey Guy's, Do You Diesel?,

[seapower]

I don't get any publication's, don't really have alot of extra down time. Haven't heard about the Volvo D6 ( that hp range) ,I/O combonation yet. It's not all about horse power, it's torque that has been taking the gears out. You might be able to get by with a higher RPM engine that deliver's less low end torque. But that is where diesel's shine, torque! I had a commercial boat with a Chevy v-8 block and a 290 outdrive. Didn' t have any problem's at all with the drive. Kept the maintainence up and worked it. Volvo's not a fraid to try something new, I'd like to see it work. Let's see what happen's long term, hope it's good. Frank,SeaPower

[WAHOONBOX]

I AM TOTALLY SPEECHLESS HERE.........


WORLD FREAKIN CLASS FRANK AND OTHERS...

JUST A NOTE TO ALL AS I READ THESE REPLIES....JD SAID IT ALL A FEW RESPONSES BACK....SHARING ON OPEN FORUM HELPS ALL GUYS...ALL MEMBERS....PM CHIT CHAT HELPS ONE

I GET MANY PM'S ASKING QUESTIONS ABOUT THIS AND THAT....AND I AM HONORED TO RECEIVE THEM.....BUT NORMALLY MY RESPONSE BACK TO A PM QUESTION IS "ASK THIS IN OPEN FORUM....WE WILL ALL LEARN SOME WY OR ANOTHER...INCLUDING MY SORRY ASS

ROCK FREAKIN ON GUYS


GREAT THREA D YA GOT HERE

[Capt.Troy Crane]

Sent you a PM. Are you talking about a single 400 hp diesel on that outdrive? From what experience I've had, don't know of a I/O that'll take it. I've seen low end torque take out the gear's, shear's them off. You might get by with a higher RPM engine that deliver's less torque, but won't be in that hp range. Something like that may last a "little" while, but my guess would be not for long. I think that is where the "IPS" and "Zues" system's are trying to come in to play. I believe in long term installations only. Over time (many hours of use) is the only way to justify a project like that, IMO. Folk's are alway's thinking "out of the box" and that's a good thing,it's how new product's come about. Who know's, may be the next big thing, but to date I don't know of a unit that'll take it.Frank,SeaPower

Frank,
back in the early to mid 90's when Cummins and Merc were toying with the idea of coupling a diesel to a bravo 3, a guy I knew in Va. Beach (who is no longer in business) were selling Cummins and they put a pair of B series 210's in a 28 Bertram with the Bravo 3's behind them to test. The boat was like a rocket ship and they never had any problems that I can recall.
Another friend, at the same time, put a 210 with a bravo 3 in a 27 Formula which is the same as the 27 Albemarle hull. It performs really well and is still going.

I'm like you, I know there is a limit to the amount of torque those i/o's will take before they will self destruct.

Troy

[seapower]

Your right on there. I thought I had added that to my response to Capt.Quest but evidently forgot to. Never had that happen before, yeah right! That is the option that was offered and to my knowledge does really well. If I myself was going to put an I/O in a boat and was looking for long term, that would be it, on the Cummin's/Merc side. That doesn't include the smaller 4.2 product that they are putting out, only the 5.9 that we are talking about here. I owned a 210 hp B Serie's in a work boat myself, it never missed a day's work. I put alot of hour's on it with the "daily grind" of commercial fishing. I am very confident in that engine, it's on the low end of output for that family and gave countless hours. Thank's for bringing that up.
Let me also say that this thread should in no way take the place or go against what is recomended by your own personal diesel tech. I know that they aren't exactly falling out of the tree's, but there are some good ones out there. Don't stop looking until you find one you have confidence in. Confidence is key and he'll know it. Generally that first conversation will let you know if you've found the right guy.Frank,SeaPower

[Questsportfishing]

if any of you look back in history you will see Bertram won almost all the miami to ny or miami to nassau races against any other boats... thats something to take under consideration... and they ran outdrives to straight shafts... did you also know bertram had a total of 14 boats built to sea drive outboards??? long before I ever repowered one with outboards... the re-built cummins power packages are tits up basically because they shed all that stupid electronic stuff when they are re-commisioned also.. great little engines hope your holidays are going great and your family's are close by ...

[seapower]

Figured I'd give this thing a bump. Frank,SeaPower

[Andaman Andy]

Got to tell everyone, Frank has helped me already and took a lot of "Guess work" out of my maintainance program, Frank consider my riggers tipped.
Can you elaberate on the "Zinc side of things" for me and everyone else that may not know.

[seapower]

Andy I assume you're talking about the zinc's in the raw water side of your cooling system. They act the same way as the zinc's on the running gear. With the flow of raw water through the "dis-simular" metals in your cooling system (heat exchanger's, oil cooler's, fuel cooler's, after cooler's) an electrical charge is created that has to go somewhere ( think of it as a ground,so to speak). In it's flow it is going to eat at the softest metal in the system, that SHOULD be your zinc's, if they are grounded properly. Zinc is a very soft, "self sacrificial" metal, that is in your system, just for that reason. I can not tell you the number of high dollar outfit's I go to and the zinc's are non-existant. Without the zinc's in place the electrical charge (electrolisis) will start eating at the next softest metal, more than likely the tubes or solder joints of your cooler's. The electrolisis WILL WIN and you aren't gonna like it. This is one of those cases where an ounce of prevention will deffinitly be worth more than a pound of cure.
Keep up with ALL of the zinc's in your system's. Don't use thread tape or pipe dope on the zinc plug's ( this can cause the zinc's to be insulated and they won't do their job), the plugs are pipe threaded brass and should seal against the fitting they are going into. I usually will put just a little "red" lock-tite on the zinc thread's (take the new zinc loose from the plug, apply the lock-tite, screw the zinc back into the plug and snug it down), before I put it in the component. This will help keep the zinc from coming loose and falling into the component it is supposed to be protecting. The zinc will "swell" during it's sacrifical state and when you try to back it out it may become stuck and back out during removal. The lock-tite help's against this aswell. When you change zinc's alway's try to retreve the pieces that have come loose. If you don't, over time you'll end up with enough loose material that will cause an obstruction of raw water flow and this will lead to over-heat. Treat this the same way you would if you have a broken raw water impeller. If you've got 8 broken vane's that have come loose from your impeller, retrieve those 8 brken vane's from your system. They will more than likely be down stream at the next cooler, find'em and get them out.
Owner's ask, how long do zinc's last? This is dependant on your system. Each boat is different, depend's on bonding, brand of engine, stray voltage, etc... The best way I know is to look at them once a month to begin with and note how much deterioration you see. After awhile you'll know the "trend" for your system. Stray A/C voltage around the dock's will take your zinc's out, literally overnight, if it is bad enough. If you have this problem, find out where the voltage leak is coming from. Could be a wire in the water, broken insulation, could be a nieghbor's boat with a battery charger lead laying in the bilge. If your zinc's are going away FAST, you have to find the problem or your cooler's are next.
Guess what I'm getting at is make this a hard and fast (no excuses) part of your maintainence routine. The key word here is ROUTINE. Most early engine or drive train failure's come directly from a lack of a "maintainence routine". It's during this routine when you find the little thing's, nip them in the bud, before they become big thing's. When we started this thread I asked some very common question's and got pretty common answer's from PM's and over the phone. The common answer was and still is "I don't know". What kind and what ratio coolant are you using? "I don't know" ,sound familiar??? At a minimun that diesel engine (even a small one ) is gonna cost you $20,000.00, and that's not removal and installation. "I don't know" is the wrong answer!!!! When you make it a routine it becomes "normal". What's the date of your wedding anniversery? You know that because you wife introduced you to "Routine". It's really pretty simple stuff when you break it down into small pieces. Your complicated system's are nothing more than a serie's of "small piece's" put together. Don't let it intimidate you. Common sense rule's. Frank,SeaPower

[Andaman Andy]

Great post frank, where are the Zincs situated on a 6V92TA?

[seapower]

this is kind of a genaric answer. Most will have them in all of the cooler's. Heat exchanger, transmission cooler,fuel cooler,after cooler, and on some the raw water pump will have one on the inlet elbow. Any component that is raw water cooled should have a zinc, if that engine require's them. There are engine brand's that have a particular engine family that don't have zinc's at all. So you have to know your engine and it's maintainence requirement's. Frank,SeaPower