gunnel mount outriggers project

[parmentj]

Cut another hole, inch and a half or inch and 5/8 in another peice of mahogony at the same angle. Slide this over the pipe on top of the existing peice. Remove 1 front screw, pre drill all the way through and bolt with a 4 inch bolt with a washer. Repeat for all 3 other holes.

Now thats what I am looking for, appreciate it Goodnyou! Keep em coming...

[Goodnyou]

Or you could remove the mahogany that is there and use a new peice. Making it longer wouldn't hurt either. You can also use the 5/4 synthetic decking like trex as backing. It will never rot. Use good stainless hardware(not the crap you buy at home depot), Nylok nuts and good thick washers. If you go this far pull out the whole thing and epoxy the wood in the gunnel. You will appreciate this in 7 yrs when it hasn't rotted out.

[parmentj]

Or you could remove the mahogany that is there and use a new peice. Making it longer wouldn't hurt either. You can also use the 5/4 synthetic decking like trex as backing. It will never rot. Use good stainless hardware(not the crap you buy at home depot), Nylok nuts and good thick washers. If you go this far pull out the whole thing and epoxy the wood in the gunnel. You will appreciate this in 7 yrs when it hasn't rotted out.

Very cool, thanks again goodnyou.

[Avenger]

3M 4000UV is a good sealer for bedding the plate and screws. It is UV resistant, has good sealing properties, and unlike 5200 will not make the installation permanent. It's not easy to tell from the picture, but is that deck cored? If so, with what? As goodnyou said, properly sealing up any coring material is critical since water getting in will destroy it and make a soft spot.

If the core is plywood it should be pretty strong, and I would agree with epoxying it where it's exposed. If it's foam it has to come out and be filled with something i.e. a thickened epoxy. Otherwise your mounting bolts will crush the deck there.

That rigger has a lot of leverage against that one spot, so good backing is important, otherwise you will get stress cracking as the gunnel flexes. Your mahogany backing looks pretty stout, but its thickness causes the issue of having to punch that angled hole in it. A piece of aluminum 1/4" thick or more is a common backing material. Unlike stainless, it's not too hard to work with and is less flexible. Be careful about using synthetics as backing. I'm not sure about a composite like Trex, but all plastics cold-form and will keep squeezing out under load requiring constant retightening. Whatever backing material you end up with it should cover as much area as possible to help distribute the loading, and I would STRONGLY recommend that you thru-bolt it. Screws will eventually pull out as the constant whipping of the rigger works them. Use self locking nuts or double-nut them so they don't work loose, and you should still check them periodically.

Hope this helps.

[sushi42]

To all who actuallt tried to give good constructive criticism. Thanks. To all who know everything there is to know about everything that moves, crawls, slithers, swims and flies,...................WHERE THE FU#K WERE YOU GUYS WHEN PARTMENTJ WAS ASKING FOR ADVICE?

The only reasonable answer I can come up with is that you were all hanging out with little Shirley, uh um, I mean little Jimmy Andersons shack. And then you all waited until he posted up pics and whew, let the fireworks begin. Pretty screwed up if you ask me. Since I've been on this site I have posted up with what I know. Not what I think I know, nor did I wait until someone else said something derogatory and then jumped in the mix.

Now, my bone here is with Mrs. knowitall, little Shirley Andersons Marine Serveces. He has actually p.m.ed PartmentJ and told him to remove the pics before everybody thinks that this is the way to do it! WTF? He even elaborated and said that nobody that posted up replies knew what they were talking about!! Then he p.m.'d Fortunamate and told this young man to leave the site because he doesn't know anything and he has nothing to offer! WTF again? Have you not seen his vids. They alone speak for themselves!! Do all of you know his age? I do. And for what he knows at such an early age in his tuna killing career, well I'm jealous! And I grew up on tuna boats!! This kind of crap belongs in little Shirley Andersons Marine Service girls room. And not here! This isn't what the site is about, it's about lending a hand when you can. Giving advice when it's asked of you if you're that much of a professional. Not to bash members down because you feel tough behind a keyboard. I expect some responses on this one.

Is this how we as SFC members, the best fu#kin fish killing site ever, is this how we should act, or should we put that other crap aside and help each other. And no I'm not talking about flying kites for bigeyes. I don't know what more to say but think before you type maybe?

Good luck SFC, cause if this keeps up, you're gonna need it.

[parmentj]

Avenger, that absolutely helps. Appreciate the advice. Yes, the core is plywood...
Jackson

[Avenger]

There's a product made by Smith&Co called CPES. Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer that would be good for that. Their website has information on it. www.smithandcompany.org Click on technical information and see what they have to say about it. I know it's very good on balsa core, but it should work well here too.

I don't know if you want to get that involved in it. And you should get similar results by thinning a 2 part epoxy and soaking it in. But that's a really nice boat and it would sure $uck if it got damaged.

Please keep us posted on how you make out.

P.S. Looking at your pictures again I'm thinking about what a tough spot that is because it is so narrow and when the outrigger is extended for fishing it's working on that on its weakest plane. Is there some way you could add a support near the bottom end of the holder i.e. putting a piece of plywood across between the coaming and the hull. That way all the force isn't twisting the gunnel. I'm not sure if that's clear.... When I was involved in fabricating things on stock car chassis we called it a "double shear" mount. Using a plate at both ends of a mount would eliminate the twisting that a single plane mount was subject to. Just a thought.

[parmentj]

thanks again Avenger, I will look into it and let you all know how it goes...

[Avenger]

Had another brainstorm, but I type slow. Please look at my P.S. on the prior post.

[triniswordfish]

sushi42 easy there buddy i know gmax personally and yes he has done the installation on a locally built center console down here.

as for advice on the set up i agree 100% that a stainless plate as a backer is way better than a piece of wood. you are going to get lots of stress cracks under and on top the gunnel in the near future.... and i would recommend sorting out those two screws... maybe change them to bolts, oversized washers and lock nuts

just my two cents or screws....