The custom build continues; A photo update.

[Nomad]

Regarding cockpit steering, if you are going with Simrad for your A/P, they make a jog lever rudder control (some commercial boats use that instead of a wheel) that plugs in to the A/P as easily as the engine controls do. If you get the Simrad AP28, the jog lever control does not automatically recenter the rudders (moving the lever to the middle position only stops moving the rudders), so you will also need a rudder angle indicator.

[Fortunate One]

Thanks Nomad,

I just checked it out on line.

That's a perfect idea.

I'm glad I waited to look into it. I feel like the blind squirl that found and an acorn.

[SteveK]

Mike,

Just to add to that idea, I fished with a friend on his Northern Bay 36 that has a pop up stern control with that same Simrad unit. Its installed on a deck with the gear and throttle controls. When its not in use, it swings back down and out of the way. He wanted his located at the center of his stern so he could see color when steering around a giant to keep the line away from the prop when fighting it out of the corner rod. Maybe an intergrated pop up unit could work well in some location for you. When not in use, it could be dropped and stowed.

Steve

[Nomad]

Thanks Nomad,

I just checked it out on line.

That's a perfect idea.

I'm glad I waited to look into it. I feel like the blind squirl that found and an acorn.

One more thought. In my opinion, rudder controls in the cockpit have very little value if you can't see to drive forward since they are pretty useless for backing. On the other hand, at least on my boat, it often happens that we stop for a hookup and the helmsman forgets to turn off the autopilot, which continues to try to keep the boat on course, but can't without forward motion, with the inevitable result that it turns the rudder hard over and sounds (incessantly) the off-course alarm. With the jog lever AP control in the cockpit, a touch to that will shut off the alarm.

[Fortunate One]

Nomad and Steve, thanks for the info and experience. I was at the shed this morning working out some details and I'm going to move forward with your idea. That Simrad will do the trick.

When we fish offshore we rarely have to be concerned with another boat in close proximity.

I can install the controls in the starboard tackle cabinet where the guys haven't cut the door in yet. The Simrad jog lever and a set of throttle/shift controls would fit in that space and since the space directly above it is only going to contain a flat screen used to view the fish finder while chunking at night, it would be an excellent place for it.

That flat screen could be switched to view the radar. That would allow me to operate the controls from the pit if necessary and still be able to pick up another boat or a commercial lobster pot radar reflector or "High Flyer" as they are referred to in this neck of the woods.



Well the windscreen arrived and the guys have set one side and front. Since the shed is very confined it's awkward trying to get a good picture of it, but I think the lines are exactly what we were going for, Sleek and Sweeping.

It also provides good visiability when I'm standing.

At least I won't be looking though plastic.








The electrical contractors were down there this morning. One was in the cabin working out the mounting locations for the master cabin AC and the other guy was in the engine room installing battery switches.

These switches are slick. They have motors built into them and are controlled from the helm station so I have the capability of switching batteries on or off by just turning a small switch from the helm station. That saves running about $800.00 worth of cable up to and back from the helm station. Less weight and less labor. All that's required now is to plug them into the switch at the helm.

Here's a picture of them mounted on the center stringers/engine beds in front of the engine mounts.

What will they think of next?






So at them monent the guys are applying finish paint in the cabin. All that remains to be built in the cabin are 2 hanging lockers located on the port and starboard sides of the forward master cabin. The seat back for the galley seating needs to be constructed and the head needs to have the shower built and vainty for the head.

The helm deck is almost ready for paint. The "L" seating behind the helm seat is getting detailed and a false bottom is being installed over the helm beck drain channels that were constructed under the seat. The false bottom will keep the rod storage area under the seat looking good.

The greenish pieces are the drain channels.

Who does things like this?




So at this point the guys are still moving along quite well. We're discussing prop sizes as recommended by H&H. They think we're going to get 32knts at cruise which I'm very please about. So in 2 weeks we should have color on the sides the cabin should be painted and the helm area should be painted.

There's simply too much plastic up in the cabin to get any decent pictures at this point. Hopefully I can get some on the next trip after the protection has been removed.

We finally worked out some details pertaining to the bait freezer which will take up all available space in the lower port side cabinet. We will be able to get 10 flats of butter fish in there and have space left over for baits that we're going to drag.

I directed the project manager to created 2 large removable containers that will fit below the lazarette hatches. We have enough room back there to be able to store all of the trash generated on a multiday offshore trip as well as any ropes, fenders and such that will require storage.

Most of the AC wiring has been completed, now for the DC runs and completion of the AC and Freezer systems.

I've elected to have freezer plates installed in the fish box in lieu of going with the original idea of an ice maker. It seems to me to make the most sense. Ever place your hand in a salt water slurry mix? It can get painfully cold.

I'm really getting mixed emotions at this stage. I want it finished and I'm anxious to sea trial her but the build/design process experience is addicting.

The thought and focus it has taken will be replaced with memories that will be created with the boating and fishing experiences. And I'm sure I'll be tweaking a few things as we go, but the build process will be missed.

[Nomad]

If you are going with NavNet3D, black box version, you can install a second controller in the cockpit and thereby have access to full NN3D functionality, independent of the primary station. (In other words, you may be able to save the cost of a second NN3D unit by going black box, which is significantly more powerful to boot.) If you intend several video sources on board and want to be able to display any of them on any screen, rather than using a bunch of switches (and video amplifiers), I have found that a matrix switcher works great. One of the video sources you may want to consider is an underwater camera. Another is a thermal camera (though you will use that at the helm, much more than in the cockpit).

She is looking good!

[nabeelah]

Hi Fortunate One,
keep up the good work,you will certainly be rewarded.She is surely coming up fine!!

[karenlynncharters]

Fortunate One, The boat looks fantastic. I am really enjoying watching the progress. Thank you. A word of caution regarding cockpit controls. When we built the Karen Lynn we installed a jog lever in a transom box with a electronic throttle for fighting fish as there is no bridge and our deck is 22' long (far away from controls). We were warned by people that the jog lever would not respond quickly enough but we didn't listen to them as we did not want to run four hydraulic lines back to the transom station and figure out how to install a helm.

They were right. The jog lever only turned the boat as fast as the autopilot would. If we sped it up too much, the auto pilot wouldn't work properly. We tried all kinds of fix's but nothing really made it work properly and respond quickly enough. In the end we bit the bullet and ran the hydraulic lines and added a helm. We have a 12" Isotta cigarette boat racing wheel http://www.livorsi.com/catalog/isotta.htm that we simply pop on and off (or we can leave on when trolling) and it is awesome. It is so easy now for us to fight fish and get them straight up and down quickly and simply. Much less yelling and drama!

Attached is a picture of Collin at the wheel and controls with a client hooked up....sorry it isn't a clearer shot. My advice is do the helm from the start, you won't regret it. Here is a link to a tagging video that shows Capt Collin running the boat from the transom station.http://www.revver.com/video/1180276/...he-karen-lynn/

Good luck with the project. Incredible Boat!

Jim
www.karenlynncharters.com

[Nomad]

The speed at which the jog lever (or AP) turns the rudders can definately be a problem, but it is very solvable. I had that problem on my last boat, and attributed it to an undersized pump. On my newest boat, I spec'd an extra-large (high capacity) pump. With it, I can turn lock to lock faster with the jog lever than with the wheel.

Since you did not mention a plan to also install a rudder angle indicator, let me warn you that the jog lever (at least the one that works with AP28) will not center the rudders even when it is centered. (Centering the jog lever is equivalent to telling the AP "don't move the rudders from where they are".) At least for me, it was very difficult to drive the boat straight using jog levers without knowing the rudder position.

[Fortunate One]

Good stuff guys,

Nomad, we do have a high capacity pump but now that I saw what Jim is using on the Karen Lynn, that has me thinking that a small wheel like he has would also work.

Our electrical and mechanical subcontractors apparently have worked past their commissioning work for the season and it looks like we get their undivided attention. So all of the decisions I've been mulling over have to be made quick so as not to slow the process down.

Mike