building new boat

[Oysterbreath]

Hey tabasco, the boat is looking great! I forgot I had a membership here too. I logged on JUST to read your build thread. HEck, I think this is actually my first post! Well, anyway, looks like you've been getting a lot of great advice too. I might have to get in on this action too!

[tabasco]

making up stringers for foredeck. One more to go. Probably overkill to have so many but better than a spongy deck. Plan is one the following
A. 6mm Okoume over the framework, cut out hatch shape (with the piece of center stringer) then 1/2" divinycell then glass
B. Just do two laminations of 6mm and lighter glass
Gonna make a sort of hatch frame with 1X2 fir that will fit in the hatch opening. That will hopefully give good area for screw for latches and no flex.
Never done this so if you see a screw-up let me know. thanks for any help.
tom

[Sportsman 45]

Mighty pretty work Tom!

[billschwabe]

making up stringers for foredeck. One more to go. Probably overkill to have so many but better than a spongy deck. Plan is one the following
A. 6mm Okoume over the framework, cut out hatch shape (with the piece of center stringer) then 1/2" divinycell then glass
B. Just do two laminations of 6mm and lighter glass
Gonna make a sort of hatch frame with 1X2 fir that will fit in the hatch opening. That will hopefully give good area for screw for latches and no flex.
Never done this so if you see a screw-up let me know. thanks for any help.
tom

With that close beam spacing, you could easily use just the 1/2" Divinycell with two layers of 1200 each side Tom! You could fit the foam, glass the underside then set in in epoxy/cabosil and then glass the topside, that's how we do it. Two layers of 1/4" would be overkill but you would only need one layer of glass. Probably the biggest thing is what you have the most left of!

[tabasco]

Thanks for the help. Was thinking of just divinicell like that but I wasn't sure it would be stout enough with just glass on both sides. Think I'll go that route. Gonna put one hatch foredeck and two on aft deck. Really hard to find instructions on framing of hatches so just set my stringers to frame up the hatches and had a friend help me cut some gutters out of spanish cedar (less $ than mahogany) that will frame the hatches and provide drainage. Again maybe overkill but this should hold up to abuse. Also a pic of where i was thinking of putting small block of ply under the deck at location of aft cleats. Is just epoxy these between stringer and sheer OK or do I even need this?
thanks again ,
tom

[billschwabe]

"Just" Divinycell with glass isn't a problem at all Tom, Hatteras and a ton of other builders, ourselves included, do it every day! Backing blocks are essential with the lower densities and an insert is also recommended to avoid crushing the core when tightened down or loaded in use. If you don't have any higher density core on hand like Penske or Coosa, you can also drill the holes oversize and add sleeves of either aluminum, glass or delrin tube so the core doesn't get crushed. It is a pain but part of the price of using lightweight cores, still worth the extra effort!

Those gutters look fine but make absolutely sure they are sealed with multiple coats of epoxy and the holes for hinges are caulked well or water will eventually get into them and cause problems, don't ask how I know!.

[Tarbaby]

Hatch gutters look great. Make sure the corners are glassed on the backside. That glue joint isn't strong with endgrain to endgrain. I second Bill saying to make sure you hotcoat the hell out of them....... I make mine just like yours.... If you can screw then in place leave in the countersunk stainless screws for a little extra holding power. I am sure others will have different opinions.

[tabasco]

Bit more progress. Trying to get everything under the foreward deck ready for decking. Did put lots of coats of epoxy on the hatch gutters. I like the idea of countersinking some ss screws, may do that too while i can get at it good. Just getting going on the aft deck hatches. Plan is for those two and livewell inbetween. Not sure aft just in front of the motor if i need to make a shallow motor well that drains to transom --think i will need that recessed area to tilt the motor all the way up. Put in tubes foreward so can carry two 9ft. flyrods under port gunnel and a 7ft. spinner on the strb side in front of the console. And did have a last minute thought to make a battery tray in that forward storage area in case i get a trolling motor. Pulled wires for lights and a ground wire for fuel fill already.
Any tips on cutting that hatch opening? Was thinking of making a jig that fits on the sheer to mark where to cut after its cured enough to hold the camber.
Did i forgot anything up forward?
thanks,
tom

[Tarbaby]

Router out the hole with a flush trim bit once the epoxy is kicked.

[tabasco]

took a lot of time to try to do most of the little stuff under the forward deck. ran wiring/tubes/etc. Then covered it all and taped off to try to keep epoxy from falling down on it. Put the first lamination of the foreward deck on. The pic show my clamping system. The lead sheets are HEAVY--was worried about my cradle but no problems. Decided on using the 6mm okoume because i had it left over---but did need a couple of scarfs on the bottom layer. You can see the top thats dry fitted is one solid piece. Its rock solid with the one layer but I still will use both. Then gotta cut out the hatch (my jig to mark it and the fuel fill location is in the corner) and trim everything. Was thinking to wait and glass over the decks and covering boards all at once. SHould I cut out the hatch before glass? The gunnels and aft deck will by 1/2" divinicell. Thanks for all the help and advice so far-(gonna do my tabs in the aft area next week Shay).
tom