1971 Seacraft complete restoration

[lonesurfer87]

I started working on my new project which is a 1971 seacraft 20 that somebody else had stopped in the middle of the restoration. I bought the project which previous owner had done a great job but just stopped because he bought a new boat. The whole transom was cut out and replaced with Marine Plywood and lots of Glass. The whole floor was ripped out up to the front casting deck. All foam was removed so its just stringers under the new floor with no foam. The whole boat was done using U.S. composite epoxy resin so I will continue using epoxy to complete project. The floor was raised 3 inches and new floor is Marine plywood with glass on both sides and all edges were coated with epoxy so there is no water intrusion or rot. Wood and epoxy is good as long as every hole that is cut or drilled is coated with epoxy and there will be no problem of water absorption. The floor is solid right now but I am going to put some more braces on top of two center stringers up to the bottom of the deck. The guy did a great job. The bilge was coated with an epoxy paint including the fuel tank coffin box. I am going to try and work on this as much as I can as I am out of work right now. I just bought a Suzuki 140 four stroke with 0 hours on it so the power is ready to go. Transom was raised to 25 inches as well. There were custom livewell and storage boxes in the back that I cut out with a sawzaw as I wanted to be able to walk all the way to the transom and open up some more space. I have just been doing alot of sanding and fairing so pretty boring right now but The new 47 gallon aluminum fuel tank will be in and floor glassed down in the next week. I have been working pretty hard on the console and recessed electronics area as well as the reversed flange on the inside of the console for a custom no screw look on the outside of deck. I like clean boats that have some thought put into them without just building a production boat where everyone is the same I want this boat to be special and different when completed. There will be some great custom touches that will be done with the help of my father who goes by (bligh).





























Transom Thickness two layers of 3/4" marine ply with 3/4 ounce matt inbetween them and the interior transom glass and a mixture of epoxy and cabosil wherever there were any gaps.






Reverse flange on inside of center console came out good on the laminating table.










The day I picked her up

[lonesurfer87]

I also drilled out all the rivets holding the deck to the hull and removed all old caulking. I then lifted the deck up and caulked 5200 all the way around hull to deck to seal that area. My dad who once had a 20 seacraft knew that was a problem area as the water would come right under the gunnel and down on the deck or bilge through the front rod storage. I also removed front hatches and removed all old wood and am in the process of recoring the hatches with divinycell. They should be real solid and last a long time. I am doing this boat right and want a solid boat under my feet when completed instead of a half A$$ restoration. The deck is raised 3 inches as well. Hope to have her painted by christmas.

[birdhunter]

Great looking work.

[Captain Jay Kavanagh]

Looks really good.

the first Bite Me was a 1973 Sea Craft 23.

You did the right thing raising the floor, most of the sea crafts the scuppers were about 2" too low.

Will she be self bailing?

the last pic looks like the console is a little too far forward.

Looks great, keep up the good work!

[Bligh]

The boat will be self bailing as the floor was raised 3 inches. I think I'm going to move the console back a little bit from where it is in the last picture.

[brokensheer]

Pretty work indeed!, are those helper that did not work out hanging on the wall? Raising the sole is a great idea, your workmenship realy shows in how you rebuilt the stringers, I like the cockpit sole supports too, please keep the pictures coming!,, Bligh, are you claiming to be the one who taught him what he knows,, All the best

[lonesurfer87]

I got the fuel tank in and mounted in the boat. The tank has neoprine strips supplied by SP Tanks in South Jersey applied to all sides of tank to secure it in place. The tank is held down by neoprine strips on top of tank with coosa board strips and mahogany stringers run across to hold the tank down. All coosa board and mahigany was coated with epoxy to seal it from any water intrusion shold water ever get under the deck. There is NO FOAM HOLDING THE TANK DOWN OR AROUND THE TANK! Foam can trap water causing the tank to leak down the line. I have seen this done even on so called top tier boats and myself not a "professional" boat builder believe this is the best possible way to install a tank. SP TANKS does not allow foam to be put around the tanks and requires the neoprine stripping to secure tank. There is air all around the tank to allow it to get air and dry should water ever get around the tank. There is drain holes on the front and aft board holding the fuel tank to allow water to drain. These holes were also coated with epoxy. I ran wiring up to the bow for navigation lights and also wires to the port and starboard rod lockers to mound led lights under the gunnel. The lid for the fuel tank coffin is made out of 1/2 inch coosaboard and glassed a layer of 1708 Glass with Epoxy Resin before putting down tomorrow. The Coosa lid will be glassed down to the floor so the floor will be all level with no screws. I took all measurements of the tanks location as well as all hose and wire locations which will go in my manual for the boat that I am making should the tank ever need replacing or servicing which should never happen. I also put the deck drain holes in. I drilled the holes first then epoxy coated the transom where I drilled. I then installed 1" OD PVC pipe for the drains and epoxyed them in. The drains came out real good and I like these alot better than the brass ones that have a chance of water intrusion. I also have been fairing and sanding the console alot kind of boring work. I am doing everything right as this is going to be my boat so I am putting alot of pride and hard work into this one.

Here's some pics enjoy!







Hatch




My dad goes by (Bligh) on THT working on the tank install




Bilge area






Me working on my console

[lonesurfer87]

I removed the front hatches and removed all balsa coring and recored with divinycel and galss onel layer between the divinyceland one layer on other side of divinycel. Hatch is very strong. I also have been laying down some fairing putty on whole boat as well as the console. The fuel tank hatch is glassed down. That was made out of penske board (same as coosa) with a layer of 1708 glass on either side. The hatch was unbelievably light and strong.

fuel hatch glassed down with epoxy resin and 1708 glass.


Hatches with all balsa coring removed.




Divinycel coring being applied to hatch.