Well, I'm starting a new project and thought it might be interesting to document it to show how easy and rewarding it can be to get into rod building.
For most of you guys who already build rods this might be a little boring for you, but I'd love to hear your comments on the ways that you do things- I'm always looking to pick up tips and learn better ways to do things.
So on to the project....
This year we'll be setting up more for the troll, and will be in need of a couple of new set ups for 50s and 30s. I'll be building 3 set ups, and Captkev will be building 2. They're going to be stand up style tuna rods with wind on guides and aluminum butts.
So let's get this started...
Here are the blanks. For this project we chose to use Pac Bay tuna shorts XST56XXHSB. These are all fiberglass blanks.
These are the ferrules that come in the aluminum butts. These will need to be epoxied onto the blanks.
In preparation for attaching the ferrules, I put them on each of the blanks and then mark the point that they bottom out with masking tape- this does two things for me. The first is that it will tell me when the ferrule is fully on the blank, and the other is so that I can mark the spine of the blank.
To find the spine (the strongest part of the blank), place one end on the floor, one end on your hand, and then load the blank with your other hand. By rolling it back and forth on the floor you will find a spot that it "jumps" past. This is the spine. When building a rod (generally) you will position the spine on the top of the rod (picture putting the rod parallel with the water and the top is the side of the blank that is farthest from the water.
When I find the spine I mark it on the masking tape
Next, to prepare the surface so that it will take better with the epoxy, lightly sand the surface layer off the blank.
To make the fit on the blank tighter, I use a small piece of masking tape and test it until it goes on just right
Now before you epoxy the ferrule on, you have to make sure that it is oriented correctly. Note that the plane of the lock is perpendicular to the direction of the spine. You have to account for this so that when the ferrule is glued on, the spine is in the right place.
I place a piece of masking tape on the lip of the ferrule and note where the spine should be. I then use this line and match it up with the spine marking that I made on the rod.
Then goup both the blank and ferrule up with epoxy, line up the spine marks, and let it dry.
Well that's it for today. I'll do some more work on them this week...the season is coming right up!
Great thread there shoefish. Rod building is something that I have wanted to do. Keep us updated as your build comes along, it will be helpfull when I decide to build some myself. One question, where are you getting your supplies from?
Thanks for the support guys- I wasn't sure if anyone would have interest in this, but I thought I'd put it up anyway and see if folks wanted to see more.
Dunn, I get most of my supplies from either Donartrods.com (ask for Dean, he's a big help) or Mudhole.com.
Shoe, one more request if possible. Is there any way that you could also list the parts that you are using as you go along, just so I can get an idea of what to buy/what I am going to need? It would be greatly appreciated if you could. Thanks.
2000 Mako 253 W/A Newly outfitted 2007 top to bottom,it's one bad ass fishen machine!!!
Home Port
Salisbury-Merrimac River
Best Catch
My Wife shhh don't tell her.
Occupation
Retired/What ever the wife wants,some times she lets me fish.
shoefish heres a tip. Use masking tape to hold the ferrule with the epoxy onto the blank, not just the wight of the blank. Because as the trapped air in the epoxy / ferrule / and blank hardens it tends to want to pop and spin the blank off the bottom of the ferrule if you find this has happened you may want to consider doing an acid wrap with that blank instead of cutting down. what size ferrule 4 or 6 ?? gut fish custom fishing rods
Last edited by gut fish ?; 05-19-2008 at 03:05 PM.