Rid Finish Question!

[Deep C]

Ok gang the all mighty Deep one has a question here... I have about 120 sticks in my aresenal. Most store bought uglysticks which I have no issue with but my custom stuff seems to get an issue every couple years.
They go dull on the finish. Especially bad after these island runs. I have tried various house hold products to add a shine but they quickly get dull again. It bugs me that my $70 per rod crap holds a shine but my $500 each sticks get this way. I have taken them back for recoating a couple times to different custom shops but seldom do they go more than two years looking good.
Most who know me, know I'm tough on tackle as are my passengers... That does not however mean that I don't give a shit...

Can anybody out there recommend a clear coat that I can apply without having to put these sticks on a winding rack? Perhaps something spray on???

[In_Pursuit]

Humm, I thinking.... No.
Seriously, Since most rod coats are actually epoxy based (Flexcote Aftcote etc) they will sag and run before they cure. What you might be experiencing is UV degradation which has been a problem in the past or just tiny scratches. Try buffing the wrap cote with gelcoat polish or rubbing compound or car wax clear coat scratch remover. Nothing too course because the rod coat is alot softer than gelcoat.

[Shutterbug]

Your concern has been mine too. I make my own and the only way I've found to make the flexcoat shine is with cheap auto wax, although if I had your amount I probably wouldn't have the time to wax. Being basically a weekend warrior is probably why the wax lasts most of the season. Not heard of anyone using aerosal clear coat, maybe try it on 1 rod or a butt wrap and see. Gonna take some protecting of the other components I would think. Know this doesn't answer your question.

[Cowboy]

Deep here is what I do after a friend of mine told me about the stuff, he worked at Dupont where they developed "303 Protectant" normally found in marine stores and it is best described as sun tan lotion for your stuff.It is amazing stuff and comes in a spray bottle, after you have cleaned up your "Stuff" just spray and wipe the coating it leaves behind will protect "Anything" from UV. The most amazing test he ran for me to prove it out was spraying down a bag of rubberbands then leaving them sit in a plastic bag in the sun for several weeks, after that you could pull them full stretch without seeing the normal cracking and breaking. Good stuff get a can and try it, I use it on all my rods/reels electronic cases etc. anything I want to protect from the sun gets a coat of 303 Protectant.

[divemaster]

the stuff COWBOY is talking about sounds great I will be looking for it the next time I go to West Marine or Boat US store

[Deep C]

303 it is then... I'll give that a try.

[Good Stuff]

The next time you have a custom rod builder make you some rods ask him or her to use Threadmaster finish. It will not turn colore do to UV rays. I have heard that if you use furniture polish after each use it will keep the rod looking nice.

[Shutterbug]

I'll be, I've had a gallon of 303 for years. I use it once maybe twice a year on the fiberglass hardtop, water beads and never get the chalky look. Thanks

[Big Mike]

I build all my own rods using cabella's rod finish. They come in pre-measured 2 part packets.Two or three of them are usually enough to do a 7' 20 pound or 30 pound class boat rod, including the blank.I do turn them on a 4 rpm drying motor for a few hours to get a real smooth finish but they hold up well and don't yellow or dull.Some of them are close to twenty years old and get lots of use.I used to build and sell rods many years ago and those rods are still catching fish and looking good 20 years later.It's real easy to use.It's self leveling and virtually bubble free.Just make sure you mix it thoroughly and apply with a small brush while turning.Air temp. should be at least 70 degrees in room with low humidity and no dust.Turn for a few hours and let it sit for a day to finish curing before use.

[cape_fisherman]

1)Two or three of them are usually enough to do a 7' 20 pound or 30 pound class boat rod, including the blank.
2)I do turn them on a 4 rpm drying motor for a few hours to get a real smooth finish but they hold up well and don't yellow or dull.
3)It's self leveling and virtually bubble free.
4)Air temp. should be at least 70 degrees in room with low humidity and no dust.

1) You coat the entire blank with thread finish?

2) All epoxy finishes yellow...some more than others and some MUCH faster than others. If the finish is placed over darker colors, the color change will be virtually impossible to see. Place it over white and it will tell on itself in quick order.

3) All thread finish epoxies are self leveling and bubble free. We introduce bubbles into the finish while mixing and/or during application. Some finishes release these bubbles easier than others.

4) Humidity plays absolutely no role in the curing time of thread finish epoxies. Temperature plays a HUGE role in the curing time.

Jay