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Thread: Planer Rod Build for Parker

  1. #1
    Crab mustard is good ElMar2530's Avatar
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    Planer Rod Build for Parker 2530

    This is a build I have been documenting on a local fishing website in CT, decided to post up here to get some feedback and constructive criticism. Feel free to post up, I can take it.

    After accumulating parts for a Planer rod for over a year, I have finally started on the build.

    I am building this rod to fit my Parker, the boat has a thick transom and twins on a bracket, so I think I need a little more height than normal to clear all that stuff. Longer blank and taller bent butt (130 class)

    Never used a planer rod before so if anyone has suggestions feel free. Forum member Taz has already been a big help, and Capt. Mike from the Bluefin has offered numerous times to help me make bridles and give me some pointers, I will take him up on that soon.

    On to the build;

    Used 80ST that I bought off SF.com as well as a 130 class bent butt bought off ebay cheap.



    Guides



    Blurry pic of building up the bushing with drywall tape for the ferrule.



    Tape built up to size with ferrule in background.



    Re-wrapping tape with epoxy.



    Finished product.



    I decided to make the bushing bigger, doing it in multiple steps to ensure the ferrule is centered, not brave enough to do it in one shot.



    A few more parts cause I had the camera in hand.

    130lb Hollow Spectra, you think I need 200lb.?



    #16 Planer got on ebay for $12 with two other smaller Old Salty's



    Added SS clips, may need to be reconfigured, thinking of removing the brass ring.



    Turned the epoxy down to fit the ferrule.





    Spined the rod so the spine lines up with the indent on the bottom of the ferrule.



    Mixed up the epoxy and set her in.



    Set it to spin so the epoxy doesn't settle



    Grip next!!

    Starting to fit the grip, need to build up part of the blank because the grip I got doesn't quite fit. No biggie, got a good deal on it. LOL

    Prepped the surface with 80 grit sandpaper.



    More fiberglass drywall tape to build up the blank a little.



    Covered in epoxy and rotating, hopefully I can shape it this afternoon and glue the grip on.



    Got the blank built up and shaped over the week, glued up the grip last night, may get to wrapping today but I'm trying to decide if I want to add a winding check or not.
    Don't have one in stock.

    Pics tell the story, not much to look at.







    After the grip was glued on I tapered it down with 80grit and worked my way up to 400 wet, still needs a little work but I'll do that after the rod has been finish epoxied.



    After that i decided to make my own winding check which will be wrapped with thread and epoxied. This should make a nice transition into the grip, something I have always wanted to try and finally did.



    Turned the epoxy down to a nice taper using exacto blades.



    Guide placement next.

    This is something Taz warned me about and was actually the first thing I did to the blank. The swivel tips have a taper in the tube that does not match the taper of the rod.

    I cut the blank to where the opening of the tube fits snugly and tapered the remaining part of the blank so the tip does not rock. I will glue this on close to last so its not flailing around on the lathe.



    Here is a question for planer rod users and builders. Do you think I need to move the last guide closer to the tip?

    By running line through a preliminary placement it looks like it will come awful close to the frame of the swivel tip, I am using three guides plus the tip.







    The rest of the pics are of the stripper guide placement.





    Finally, the colors.

    I played around with a few different layouts this weekend, I decided I wanted to use something you don't see alot as well as use colors I had in stock so I chose

    .

    .

    .

    .

    Copper.

    What do you think. Its different. Reminds me of an old pool cue I used to have.

    I may add black trim bands around the center red one.



    Added them, I think it brings out the red better.



    That is where I am at now, hope to have it finished and epoxied this weekend.
    Last edited by ElMar2530; 01-28-2011 at 08:33 PM.

  2. #2
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space FLATLINER's Avatar
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    How many layers of black did you put on?


    How snug was the blank in the unibutt ferrule?

    Did you put the unibutt on to verify that it is straight?

    Looks good so far.

  3. #3
    Crab mustard is good ElMar2530's Avatar
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    I have got two layers of black thread over the gray.

    I did put the butt on, every thing looks straight.

    The ferrule is very snug and already epoxied in place.

    What are your thoughts on the guide closest to the tip?


    See any problems with the build?? Thanks for lookin'!!
    Last edited by ElMar2530; 01-28-2011 at 05:42 PM.

  4. #4
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space FLATLINER's Avatar
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    These rods go thru the biggest amount of stress and basically are like a bomb with a very short fuse. The top guide should be about 5 inches from the roller center.

    Honestly, it looks fine but you took some steps that are not normally taken. The epoxy that you put in the drywall mesh was cured. So, by sanding it down to fit the ferrule, you have a smooth layer that has a very thin additional layer of epoxy to hold it all together...... If that makes sense..... Anyway, I am not 100% certain that Flexcoat rodbuilders epoxy will hold it together. I would use it on a reelseat, but thats about it. There are much stronger epoxies out there. Personally, I use PC-7 or Rod Bond. They are a heavier duty. Also, I don't put epoxy into the drywall mesh as I want the epoxy to go down into the mesh and "marry" all together. I actually take a butter knife and push that epoxy into the mesh and then coat the inner ferrule and then put them both together. But, as I said, you will find out after a little use, how your adhesion has done. Maybe I am over thinking the union, but when I get something that works, I don't deviate.

    I looked at your picture and I think it needs to be closer to the tip top, but 5" should do it. What size guides did you get?

  5. #5
    Crab mustard is good ElMar2530's Avatar
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    I think the guide size is a 15 gotta double check. The ring on the guide is at 5 3/8" from the center of the roller, its a little closer now than the original pic.

    Got all the wrapping and the tip glued on just need to finish the last wrap near the tip when the epoxy dries and clean up the wrappings so there are no gaps, enjoy the pics.














  6. #6
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space FLATLINER's Avatar
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    Burnish out the black to take away the gaps and you are lookin good!! Way to go!

    1 down, 100 more to go!!

  7. #7
    Crab mustard is good ElMar2530's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FLATLINER View Post
    Burnish out the black to take away the gaps and you are lookin good!! Way to go!

    1 down, 100 more to go!!
    Thats on the agenda today, I do about 4-5 a year for myself, 100? .

    Next project to keep the winter blues away.


  8. #8
    Crab mustard is good ElMar2530's Avatar
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    Tip is dry, all the wraps are done and stacked. The last guide looks good up to the swivel tip. I'm happy how it came out. Epoxy tonight so it can dry overnight.







    Last edited by ElMar2530; 01-29-2011 at 12:22 PM.

  9. #9
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space FLATLINER's Avatar
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    That angle looks great. You've got it!

  10. #10
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space chumtini's Avatar
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    Question re. the FG mesh tape build up for the blank to ferrule. Would it be wrong to build up in layers, eg. a few wraps of the tape followed by epoxy, sand then repeat the whole process?

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