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Thread: Need Help for Super Seeker Rod Build

  1. #1
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space chumtini's Avatar
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    Need Help for Super Seeker Rod Build

    I could use some help getting all the parts lined up before I pull the trigger and place the order. These are S/Tuna rods on #2 Storabutts for 50W-70Ws loaded with 80# momoi over 130# HC spectra. Any suggestions, changes, tips or hints what to expect when I go to put these together would be GREATLY appreciated. As you may recall, I've built a total of two rods. So I dont know shit.

    Here's what I gots:

    Super Seeker Graphite/S-glass composite Model SS-CTSF55XH, Length:5.5" Butt Dia:0.860" Tip:#12 Line:50-80

    Aftco Ferrules For Aluminum Butts #2s Inner Dia:0.875" Outer Dia:0.970"

    Aftco Aluminum Reel Seats for #2 Storabutts

    EVA grip: 14" Pre Shaped Foregrip, Model F14 .625" Front/.750" Rear

    Aftco Windon Guides: 1x#47, 2x#32s, 2x#22s

    Aftco Big Foot SHD Tops Silver #12 or should I go with #14s???

    Thanks, in advance!

    -Steve

  2. #2
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space FLATLINER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chumtini View Post
    I could use some help getting all the parts lined up before I pull the trigger and place the order. These are S/Tuna rods on #2 Storabutts for 50W-70Ws loaded with 80# momoi over 130# HC spectra. Any suggestions, changes, tips or hints what to expect when I go to put these together would be GREATLY appreciated. As you may recall, I've built a total of two rods. So I dont know shit.

    Here's what I gots:

    Super Seeker Graphite/S-glass composite Model SS-CTSF55XH, Length:5.5" Butt Dia:0.860" Tip:#12 Line:50-80

    Aftco Ferrules For Aluminum Butts #2s Inner Dia:0.875" Outer Dia:0.970"

    Aftco Aluminum Reel Seats for #2 Storabutts

    EVA grip: 14" Pre Shaped Foregrip, Model F14 .625" Front/.750" Rear

    Aftco Windon Guides: 1x#47, 2x#32s, 2x#22s

    Aftco Big Foot SHD Tops Silver #12 or should I go with #14s???

    Thanks, in advance!

    -Steve
    If you are going with unibutts, you don't need the reelseat. The tip size for that blank is a 13. So, I would wither go 13 or 14. Probably 14. At 5'5", I would only go with 4 rollers, 47, 32,32,22. Lastly, I would take that 14" grip and cut it to 12". With a rod that short, it would be all grip and nothing else.

    Other than finish, epoxy and thread, you have it all.

    Kevin
    www.anglersenvy.com.

  3. #3
    Sit down Shut up And fish armbreakerrods's Avatar
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    Those are the very best in blanks.
    Good luck and have fun with the builds!

  4. #4
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space chumtini's Avatar
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    I already have a set of SB butts I can re-use so it's actually cheaper to go that route since I just need a ferrule and reel seat

    But the tip size has me a little puzzled.

    Seeker's catalog specified a 12 tip. But other sites (eg donart, mudhole, etc) specified a 13 tip. Since nobody seems to make a 13, I ordered a 14 SHD tip. Anyone know if a 14 tip will fit as is or will the rod tip have to be trimmed?


  5. #5
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    I didn't know of a 13 either, but just relayed the info I had. I woud buy a 12 and a 14 and mail the unused one back via US mail for $4.95. They have the boxes at the post office and $4.95 is worth having it done right the first time.

    KK

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    What line class are you after? How long are the finished rods going to be? The reason I ask is because of the specs you provided seem to good right out of the box. What I mean by that is the buttt diameter will fit in a #2 unibutt right out of the wrapper. So now you are dealing with a rod that will be close to 7ft long, which to me is way to long, with that being said you are looking to fish 80-130lb, I do not think this set up will work for you at all with out altering the blank. By altering the blank I mean to trim it back either from the tip or the butt, well you really do not want to take too much off the butt because you will lose a bunch of the power of the rod. You can take some off the tip, but you do not want to take too much off the tip as you will lose the action of the rod.
    I would really think about jumping a model or two so you will have a little more freedom in trimming the blank and gettting it to the line class or action you are ultimately after.
    This may sound confusing but if you take that blank and trim off the butt you are going to compromise the tip section or lifting power dramatically! I would say also taking it off the tip will compromise the loading power of the rod.
    I would be looking to move up at least one or two models and take my time trimming the blank. I am guessing you will be happy with a #16 top at the minimum, and you may find you will have to grind some glass to get the ferrule to fit on the blank.

  7. #7
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space chumtini's Avatar
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    Is this the same ccrods from the tuna club?

    These will be S/Up tuna rods with 50-80# mono over 130# HC on 50/70VSWs and Aftco short curved SB butts. Desired overall rod length should be 6'-ish, not 7-1/2

    I was guessing the tip gets trimmed back (eg size 13 tip?). But I don't know Jack Schitt. Hence,my call for help.

    I'd prefer the XXH, but shyed away from it because the XH fit the ferrule dead nuts on.
    Last edited by chumtini; 05-04-2009 at 10:07 PM.

  8. #8
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    Yes it is me....
    You will not get close to what you want with that blank I do not think.
    I would hate to tell you other wise because once you start cutting you can not glue it back!
    I really would urge you to reconsider the finished length. I think you will want to be done with a finished length from 5ft 6in or shorter. With the short curved butt the longer the length the more advantage you are giving to the fish. It is the lever and fulcrum scenario. The longer the rod, the more leverage you lose.
    I am assuming you have a power wrapper, so grinding the blank is not that bad, after trimming the blank to what length I am after, what I do is build up the tip of the blank with 2inch masking tape rolled on super tight, build it so you get a half an inch or so diameter or greater, and chuck the tip end in to the headstock, and set up your supports so the rod rolls freely without wobbling like crazy, next measure up the butt end the length of the inside of the ferrule and mark that off on the blank. Next get the rod spinning with the motor nd introduce a large mill file to the blank and make passes from the butt to the end of you ferrule mark. Just keep making passes down the blank, checking often to make sure you do not over do the removal of the material. It will come off pretty quickly.
    I do know some others will make their blank cutt and glue up inside the blank another piece of blank material that will match up to the unibutt ferrule id. If you go this route mke sure your plug material can get up the blank an minimum of 6 inches or so.
    I still really think you will want ot got heavier of the blank model before you begin however......

  9. #9
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space FLATLINER's Avatar
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    Just use a belt sander (table top model) and rotate it and grind it down to the desired OD.

    Kevin

  10. #10
    I think Admin is going to let me have this space chumtini's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccrods View Post
    Yes it is me....
    Cool! It's a small world wide web. Sounds like the XXH a better fit?

    Nothin's easy

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