Islander/ballyhoo with a circle hook

[offshore]

Nice !! Man I love Blue / White. My drawing puts the hook on the backside of the head with a bead between the hook and the Ballyhoo.....Mark

[austin ensor]

this is what i do

[WhiteMarlin]

From what I understand...people that have used this rig with success...prefer a lighter mono...maybe closer to 100-130lb...it allows the hook to rotate a little easier and find the corner of the jaw...if you loose an Ilander every once in awhile...well...hopefully someone else is paying for em....

[offshore]

Nothing fancy but this used to work for us. OK I hope it this understandable. We used to use this method for bare baits also...Mark

Double your rigging floss and slide a chin weight through the loop. Then tie a loose overhand knot. Do not pull knot tight.


Now slip the loop over the head and pull the two tag ends between the weight and the knot in opposite directions and snug the knot up under the gills but don't pull to tight. Slide the chin weight up against the knot.


Take the two tag ends and cross them over the top of the ballyhoo's mouth and then pull the tag ends down under the beak. Now tie another loose overhand knot in the tag ends close to the ballyhoo.


Now pull the two tag ends in opposite directions to snug the knot under the chin. Do not pull to tight just snug.


Take the two tag ends and run them through the eyes from opposite directions and then down behind the chin weight tie a square Knot behind the chin weight and clip off the excess.


The rigging floss should have a formed a "X" on top of the ballyhoos head. You can put your hook through the "X" in the rigging floss either horizontal or vertical which ever you prefer.


The rigged Ballyhoo has a bead between the hook and the lure to keep the crimp from binding in the hole of the lure. You can add more beads depending on the lure.

[rarhomes]

Nothing fancy but this used to work for us. OK I hope it this understandable. We used to use this method for bare baits also...Mark

Double your rigging floss and slide a chin weight through the loop. Then tie a loose overhand knot. Do not pull knot tight.


Now slip the loop over the head and pull the two tag ends between the weight and the knot in opposite directions and snug the knot up under the gills but don't pull to tight. Slide the chin weight up against the knot.


Take the two tag ends and cross them over the top of the ballyhoo's mouth and then pull the tag ends down under the beak. Now tie another loose overhand knot in the tag ends close to the ballyhoo.


Now pull the two tag ends in opposite directions to snug the knot under the chin. Do not pull to tight just snug.


Take the two tag ends and run them through the eyes from opposite directions and then down behind the chin weight tie a square Knot behind the chin weight and clip off the excess.


The rigging floss should have a formed a "X" on top of the ballyhoos head. You can put your hook through the "X" in the rigging floss either horizontal or vertical which ever you prefer.


The rigged Ballyhoo has a bead between the hook and the lure to keep the crimp from binding in the hole of the lure. You can add more beads depending on the lure.

Have you actual used this island lure / circle hook rig?

[offshore]

Have you actual used this island lure / circle hook rig?

We used to use it down in the keys with various types of hard head trolling lures but not the Ilanders. It worked well with the others and should work with a Islanders..... Mark

[reel fool]

...if you loose an Ilander every once in awhile...well...hopefully someone else is paying for em....

JM--LMAO--yea, sure, it´s in the budget. benefits of that big private rig you´re on. Where are you?

[Makattak]

Thanks guys, anymore variations are welcome.