ROD FINISH????

[Fish Poison Rods]

I have seen quite a few opininions on rod finishes over the past 30 years and quite a few "Worlds best finish" claims as well. What are the 3 main characteristics in a good rod finish? I know there are more than 3 but for the sake of getting to the point what do you feel they are? Which finish works best?
Kevin Bogan

[shoefish]

This should be a good thread, and I'm looking forward to hearing what others have to say. For me, I'm looking for something that's easy to prep, doesn't take too long to cure, and has a nice clear finish.

I've been using flex coat lite for a couple of years and have been happy with it, but have often wondered if I should branch out and try something new- I just haven't heard/seen that thing yet that makes me say "I have to try that".

Looking forward to what others have to say.

[clt_capt]

I'm not very experienced on the rodbuilding front, but I'd love to see a finish coat that flows more evenly (maybe I don't have the touch yet)

Right now I like a little longer open time.

I'd love to see a dispenser system like West System used for their epoxy - 1 pump of resin, 1 pump of hardner - No syringes, etc...

[Fish Poison Rods]

I see this is a topic of interest. I asked the question, I'll give my view.

Application; The best finish paints well with a brush, cuts out well, and has good self leveling properties.

working time; one that gives an honest 20 minutes of a good flow rate, and the ability to manipulate after 30 mins to one hour
cure rate; nearly touchable at 12 hours, cured within 18-24 hours.

a couple of others

Bubble dispersement. this is usually a teqnique learned over time, yet some finishes do disperse better than others.

NON YELLOWING; there is no such finish.

Shoefin, Flexcoat light is good, but the high build will hide more and do a better job on heavier rods.
CLT CAPT; if you are having trouble with eveness, or leveling you are no doubt painting mostly Perpindicular to the rod. Thats actually good for spreading the finish. when you are done with an area practice 'swiping' the brush horizontally across that area from one end to the next. Short strokes will create uneveness.
Kevin Bogan

[mannysmate]

My first 10-12 rods I build,I was using flex-coat with "good" results till I tried AFTCO WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!!

The final results are still the same but the aftco seems to be WAY easier to mix,less bubbles and longer working-time it also seems to flow better in colder conditions (ie winter-time)

Just my $0.02

[Double D]

Originally Posted by Fish Poison Rods

NON YELLOWING; there is no such finish.

All my rods seem to yellow after about 8 years So you're saying there is no cure for this? Would a new coat hide it somewhat? If so, should the new coat be high build, or light?

[clt_capt]

Thanks for the great info - it will help a lot.

As for brushes, do you use the little yellow or purple type brushes or a slightly bigger brush for final finish coats?

Thanks

[gradywhite273]

the more i do this, the more im liking the aftco product, good work time, seems to me a brighter clear finish, what i mean , brings out the color of the thread more than flexcoat.

[Marlinmate]

I have just started using FLEXCOAT Lite. Used FC Heavy for a number of years, but am really happy with Lite. It may take more time to apply, (3-4 coats), but the results are worth it. I lightly warm the bottles, and the flow is thin and smooth.

I have found that since the purchase of a PAC BAY mixer, my bubbles have virtually been eliminated from the mixing process. I couldn't believe the difference. I guess the "folding" over of epoxy, versus the mixng of it is where the difference lies.

I have yet to try any other brands of finish mostly due to the 2 large jugs of FC lite I have. Once gone, will probably try AFTCOTE or American Tackle. I recenlty saw some rods finished with AMTACK, and was pretty impressed with the clarity, and levelness of it.

Ideally, more open time would be great. I haven't had any rods yellow yet, but most aren't more than 5 years old. FC newest finish has UV protection in an attempt to minimize this yellowing. Not sure of the results.

As for brushes, I purchased some good brushes from the craft store in different widths and clean the crap out of them and store them properly. They seem to last a good while. I do know of someone who uses the yellow brushes and gets good results, but I just can't bring myself to do it....yet.

[NightHeron]

Flex coat has always been good for me. I do alot of dying the epoxy holds up rather well. aftcoat is nice and clear but scuffs easily. Threadmaster holds up very well sets quicker than aftcoat and flex but when it starts to kick your done. Swifty fastest harder good for need it now jobs. Dealing with charter boats here they always need itright now. YOU can mix threadmaster epoxy with aftco hardner to get about 40 min pot life if needed. tried almost every thing in the last 30 years always tring something new but how else do you know