Braid backing on a Tiagra 50w? - Page 2

sears720 · 11-02-2009, 04:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tunatamer73

Does straight braid run and release well through the outrigger clips? What type of clips do you use? I have the same setup as you and have been concerned about running braid through the clips. Should I be?

Havn't had any problems with the braid in the clips....just pay attention to not wedge it in between the roller and the plastic. We use the aftco roller troller clips which work very well. As far as getting your hand cut when a fish hits....I just make sure to watch the bar while putting it in the rigger, or have someone ready to yell if a fish comes up on it. Everyone has their own ways. We don't fish the canyons nor small baits much so the need for visible mono on our reels is not really needed. Braid just lasts longer. Wet packing is a must though before you fight that first fish of the year. The braid releases fine out of the clips. All of 50s now have a little mono on them just to cover the spool, and straight 200# braid. Lots of line and heavy line on the spool! The little bit of mono is there just so the braid does not actually slip and spin on the spool itself. We just kind of evolved into braid finatics!

P.S. - Braid is to die for when kite fishing....cuts right through the wind.

-Taylor

Col. Kurtz · 11-02-2009, 04:35 PM

Thanks guys. The central question appears to be "to splice or not to splice" vs. using loop to loop connections.

For those of you doing the latter, are you utilizing a bimini in your loop(s)?

striper swiper · 11-02-2009, 04:41 PM

I use a 3 turn surgeons loop. Watch Box's sniper planer setup that's the same knot.
In a blacks clip I have not had a problem I have had a roller clip f-up with braid though. Too tight on the clip for a bar was the cause not the line in the clip

Sea Draggin · 11-02-2009, 05:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by iguana1

I use the 50wlrs with 130 JB Hollow Core Spectra.

Good recommendation. I don't know anyone that has ever regretted this set up.

johnnywalker · 11-02-2009, 05:33 PM

130 Western Filament XP Braid -500-700yds
80-100lB Diamond Mono - 75-150yds

Worm knot connection from Braid to Mono
Tie bimini in XP to create double line and tie worm knot to Mono top shot; pretty easy and reliable connection for braid-mono
Melton System for Braid-Mono for years with 1,000s of reels going out around the world with no failures or complaints known yet; very tight knot that goes thru the guides very well.

WF/XP preferred Spectra as it's rounder and does not splice down on itself as much as many spectras.
Expensive first time set-up, but the spectra backing should be good for 3-5 years if treated well.

good luck

chumtini · 11-02-2009, 05:53 PM

100 # Diamond Blue Mono (so I can see it

) over 130# JB HC.

Mono is finger spliced onto a piece of HC then finished with a knotless loop. HC backing is also finished with another knotless loop. The two are connected via loop-to-loop connection. Slick.

I use about 400' of mono to keep the spectra out of the riggers. Most of the time, I never see braid. So it's never around anything it can cut...like my fingers or rigger clips.

And replacing mono is easy

Works for me.

On The Edge · 11-02-2009, 05:56 PM

solid braid = bimini for the loop, knot strength Near 100% of line rating.

Hollow braid = spliced loop, 100% line rating (this is not a knot)

You can also tie a Bimini in the hollow if you should have the need to create a new loop in your mainline and cannot splice it on the water. Just be sure to put a drop of super glue on it.

Massbaytuna3 · 11-03-2009, 05:22 PM

The 130# JB/Power Pro and 100# Mono top shot is the way to go, trolling anyways. I like working with Jinkai as a top shot. A little more expensive, but more supple and has less of a memory over time. On most of the boats myself and my brother (sears720) fish on use this combo. We like to use a little more top-shot than normal (150-200yds) just because having the mono in the riggers on WWB rigs is a plus. We usually use the "chinese finger" method for splicing, but creating loop to loop splice top shots was getting more popular for us at the end of the season (waaayy easier change outs).

We did, on my father's boat anyway, stick with straight braid on most of our reels, just because it is low maintenance, high capacity, high pound test, and TOUGH stuff. Straight braid is a dangerous choice, especially when handling fish at the boat. You just have to be careful. Haven't had any problems yet with braid in the outriggers...we try to watch it when clipping the riggers.

The thing that we like A LOT about straight braid is it improves flying kites. It is much lighter than running mono through the kite and lets you fly a kite on light wind days (You don't get that sag from the rod tip to the kite clip). The other thing that is nice is, since it is lighter, you can get the kite to fly higher, increasing the distance between your surface bait and your kite, increasing the range that your bait can swim under the kite.

Just my two. Different strokes for different folks.

Good luck on your decision!

-Bryan

Col. Kurtz · 11-03-2009, 06:16 PM

Thanks again fellas. I am going to go with the 130#/100# combo this offseason on my reels. I also think the loop to loop connection makes sense for me with the key selling point being the ease of changing out the topshot on the water.

Terence

backman · 11-03-2009, 06:47 PM

The 64$ question I deal with; having started with braid in 2003/2004/2005 is how long to go before replacing it. Clipping 10-20 yards/year off over 4-5 years; having broken off a couple fish in backing over the years - when do you replace it?

JB seems to lose its hollowness after a couple years and becomes almost impossible to splice.

11-02-2009, 04:35 PM	#12
Col. Kurtz Hide- My Wifes Logged On Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Scituate, MA Posts: 137 Credits: 506.5 Boat: "Knotty Girls"- 26' Robalo CC with twin 200 Optis Home Port: North River Best Catch: 154# BFT	Great feedback, as always... Thanks guys. The central question appears to be "to splice or not to splice" vs. using loop to loop connections. For those of you doing the latter, are you utilizing a bimini in your loop(s)?

11-02-2009, 05:56 PM	#17
On The Edge Stop staring at my Avatar. Join Date: May 2008 Location: Douglas Ma. Posts: 427 Credits: 2,413.8 Boat: 22' Proline WA Home Port: On a trailer, I fish all over the Cape Best Catch: 230 lb Mako Occupation: Tradeshow Exhibit Estimator	solid braid = bimini for the loop, knot strength Near 100% of line rating. Hollow braid = spliced loop, 100% line rating (this is not a knot) You can also tie a Bimini in the hollow if you should have the need to create a new loop in your mainline and cannot splice it on the water. Just be sure to put a drop of super glue on it. Last edited by On The Edge; 11-03-2009 at 06:40 PM.

11-03-2009, 05:22 PM	#18
Massbaytuna3 Hardcore fishacholic Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Scituate, MA Posts: 83 Credits: 1,530.1 Boat: 32' Holland Downeast "FORTUNA" Home Port: Scituate, MA Best Catch: "Pitchin Pogaloids", "Yup, it's a Mako", too many to name. Occupation: Captain/Mate/Real Job	130# Braid 100# Top Shot The 130# JB/Power Pro and 100# Mono top shot is the way to go, trolling anyways. I like working with Jinkai as a top shot. A little more expensive, but more supple and has less of a memory over time. On most of the boats myself and my brother (sears720) fish on use this combo. We like to use a little more top-shot than normal (150-200yds) just because having the mono in the riggers on WWB rigs is a plus. We usually use the "chinese finger" method for splicing, but creating loop to loop splice top shots was getting more popular for us at the end of the season (waaayy easier change outs). We did, on my father's boat anyway, stick with straight braid on most of our reels, just because it is low maintenance, high capacity, high pound test, and TOUGH stuff. Straight braid is a dangerous choice, especially when handling fish at the boat. You just have to be careful. Haven't had any problems yet with braid in the outriggers...we try to watch it when clipping the riggers. The thing that we like A LOT about straight braid is it improves flying kites. It is much lighter than running mono through the kite and lets you fly a kite on light wind days (You don't get that sag from the rod tip to the kite clip). The other thing that is nice is, since it is lighter, you can get the kite to fly higher, increasing the distance between your surface bait and your kite, increasing the range that your bait can swim under the kite. Just my two. Different strokes for different folks. Good luck on your decision! -Bryan

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11-02-2009, 04:41 PM	#13
striper swiper Bite me Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 237 Credits: 7,526.3	I use a 3 turn surgeons loop. Watch Box's sniper planer setup that's the same knot. In a blacks clip I have not had a problem I have had a roller clip f-up with braid though. Too tight on the clip for a bar was the cause not the line in the clip

11-02-2009, 05:53 PM	#16
chumtini I think Admin is going to let me have this space Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Chatham/Falmouth Posts: 2,183 Credits: 4,690.8	100 # Diamond Blue Mono (so I can see it ) over 130# JB HC. Mono is finger spliced onto a piece of HC then finished with a knotless loop. HC backing is also finished with another knotless loop. The two are connected via loop-to-loop connection. Slick. I use about 400' of mono to keep the spectra out of the riggers. Most of the time, I never see braid. So it's never around anything it can cut...like my fingers or rigger clips. And replacing mono is easy Works for me.

11-03-2009, 06:16 PM	#19
Col. Kurtz Hide- My Wifes Logged On Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Scituate, MA Posts: 137 Credits: 506.5 Boat: "Knotty Girls"- 26' Robalo CC with twin 200 Optis Home Port: North River Best Catch: 154# BFT	Thanks again fellas. I am going to go with the 130#/100# combo this offseason on my reels. I also think the loop to loop connection makes sense for me with the key selling point being the ease of changing out the topshot on the water. Terence

11-03-2009, 06:47 PM	#20
backman I think Admin is going to let me have this space Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Mass Posts: 1,207 Credits: 4,984.9 Boat: Carolina Classic 28 Home Port: Falmouth	The 64$ question I deal with; having started with braid in 2003/2004/2005 is how long to go before replacing it. Clipping 10-20 yards/year off over 4-5 years; having broken off a couple fish in backing over the years - when do you replace it? JB seems to lose its hollowness after a couple years and becomes almost impossible to splice.