Jigging with MAX DRAG

[paul708]

there is a new lami series of blanks for Jigging and popping..they are very nice. the TP, CJ and SJ series they were designed by Nicola Zingarelli .but the best part is that they have MAX DRAG in # ratings..it make it a little easier to pick a rod or blank close to what you will need to fish with.

[paul708]

nice bend alot of power. i dont know if i would have used those rollers..but i like them

[makokiller975]

looks like we might have to try them out paul i fish with 25 pounds of drag when im jigging

[flatbottom]

paul I have the shimano jigging rod. The red mark in the pic is where the braid cuts into the foregrip. Is there a way to build a rod where this does not happen.

[cape_fisherman]

Paul can build you a rod that you don't have to worry about the line touching the foregrip. The Shimanos look like they bend WAY too much. It's hard to believe that a rod with a grip that short will have line clearance issues...but you do with the Shimano. I've heard more than one person who actually fished those rods complain about the same thing.

Paul, what blank is pictured above...the 6650 or the 6680? I'm assuming it's one of the Lami's. I also see where they have come out with a lighter model in the same length. I agree about the light rollers, but the rod looks nice. Good bend.

Jay

[paul708]

Flat. YES..the way to build the rod is so it doesnt cut the grip, building one like that is the ONLY way to do it .Jay, think its the 80 and maybe a little trimmed, after looking at the setup..i may try 2 stripper guides. it may even need a extra guide ..yeah i like the pic..but i would set up a little different..

[flatbottom]

thanks paul. It also seems the smaller reel plays part in this cutting the foregrip also, for me. I need to come up and see one personally. I am a visual type O positive kind of left brained guy. I will get with ya and look over the build up process

[paul708]

looking forward to it..any time you want to stop i would be glad to show you how to set it up..its easy but important

[ChrisW_]

Paul can build you a rod that you don't have to worry about the line touching the foregrip. The Shimanos look like they bend WAY too much. It's hard to believe that a rod with a grip that short will have line clearance issues...but you do with the Shimano. I've heard more than one person who actually fished those rods complain about the same thing.

Paul, what blank is pictured above...the 6650 or the 6680? I'm assuming it's one of the Lami's. I also see where they have come out with a lighter model in the same length. I agree about the light rollers, but the rod looks nice. Good bend.

Jay

Hey nice site! My first post & I recognise some of the regulars here - hi guys!

That is my rod built to my specs. It is a Lami 5650 & cropped from the bottom so I could make use of its natural action. Try pulling braid through the guides of a fully loaded rod & you'll understand the high amount of friction across the guide from braided line dispite using hi tech SiC guides. The line being so thin must exert very high pressure on such a small contact area of the guide. This is the reason why I wanted to experiment with LWR's.

Hands up who ever heard of a rod or line breaking because the line touched the grip? I never worried about it despite this occurring. When cropping the rod, I wanted it to be a total lenght of 5', trimming the tip just made the rod tip seem too thick; so 6" was taken off the butt. This rod as can be seen is a beautiful butterfly jigging rod and an awesome fighting rod too! Some of you guys are still thinking along traditional jig tackle designs. The 5' rod lenght makes this rod perfectly balanced when the reel is "palmed" while jigging. Consider a much longer rod - say 7', then add a 14oz jig, then try jigging that for a whole day. When jigging, the leverage of a long rod is going to fatigue much more than a short rod and thats before you even get hit by a fish. Short rods reduce leverage while jigging and fighting leading to longer periods at the rail and shorter fight times.

Now rod load profile has a bearing on this too. The better Japanese jig rods tend to be parabolic. This further reduces the leverage while jigging and fighting. But what is probably most important is the right amount of flexture in the rod (with a balanced jig load) to jig in the Japanese style (high pitch, short jerk). You will know when you have the correct balanced combo, your jigging rythm will be easy to achieve and you can easily increase speed without a hitch. This is important for fish that get turned on more with retrieve speed. Furthermore, these Japanese butterfly jigs were designed for jigging in this particular manner. If you aren't jigging this way with your butterfly jigs, then you won't have realised the full potential of this most productive technique.

I'm sorry if I have tread on toes but I thought some might be interested in an experienced voice.

ChrisW_
www.jigsdirect.com

[makokiller975]

Hey nice site! My first post & I recognise some of the regulars here - hi guys!

That is my rod built to my specs. It is a Lami 5650 & cropped from the bottom so I could make use of its natural action. Try pulling braid through the guides of a fully loaded rod & you'll understand the high amount of friction across the guide from braided line dispite using hi tech SiC guides. The line being so thin must exert very high pressure on such a small contact area of the guide. This is the reason why I wanted to experiment with LWR's.

Hands up who ever heard of a rod or line breaking because the line touched the grip? I never worried about it despite this occurring. When cropping the rod, I wanted it to be a total lenght of 5', trimming the tip just made the rod tip seem too thick; so 6" was taken off the butt. This rod as can be seen is a beautiful butterfly jigging rod and an awesome fighting rod too! Some of you guys are still thinking along traditional jig tackle designs. The 5' rod lenght makes this rod perfectly balanced when the reel is "palmed" while jigging. Consider a much longer rod - say 7', then add a 14oz jig, then try jigging that for a whole day. When jigging, the leverage of a long rod is going to fatigue much more than a short rod and thats before you even get hit by a fish. Short rods reduce leverage while jigging and fighting leading to longer periods at the rail and shorter fight times.

Now rod load profile has a bearing on this too. The better Japanese jig rods tend to be parabolic. This further reduces the leverage while jigging and fighting. But what is probably most important is the right amount of flexture in the rod (with a balanced jig load) to jig in the Japanese style (high pitch, short jerk). You will know when you have the correct balanced combo, your jigging rythm will be easy to achieve and you can easily increase speed without a hitch. This is important for fish that get turned on more with retrieve speed. Furthermore, these Japanese butterfly jigs were designed for jigging in this particular manner. If you aren't jigging this way with your butterfly jigs, then you won't have realised the full potential of this most productive technique.

I'm sorry if I have tread on toes but I thought some might be interested in an experienced voice.

ChrisW_
www.jigsdirect.com

i use a 7 foot rod and can jig all day long with no problems