There have been a lot of new methods described for connecting Solid Spectra to Hollow Spectra. Since I haven't posted any of these methods here before, I have included several posts sequentially.
It can be useful to add Hollow Spectra to the end of a solid Spectra main line. This could allow for loop to loop attachment of leaders or more line.
Attached is a photo of 60# Jerry Brown Hollow spliced to 55# Daiwa Boat Braid. It holds full strength. But even with closely matched lines, there is still a difference of stretch between the solid and the hollow, so I added a safety Uni Knot at the end of the Daiwa line.
Simple Instructions (when I get time I'll do a photo sequence):
This is a 3' (or more if you like) splice of solid Spectra braid into closely matched Jerry Brown Hollow Core Spectra. (If you match the size of the hollow and size of the solid closely, the difference in rates of stretch is small and the splice only shifts about 0.1% under full load. I have tested this with a 1' insertion and it holds if the lines are closely matched.)
So start by inserting the Solid one foot in from the end of the JB Hollow so that a 1' tag is hanging for a Uni Knot serve later. Pull the solid into the hollow 3' and pull a foot of Solid out the side wall at the end of the splice. This isn't needed for strength but is used to form a safety. Tie the Uni safety an inch beyond where the solid exits the splice. Bury a 1/2" tag from the Uni safety knot back into the JB. (If the Uni tag pops out, the splice has moved a half inch. It is still 100% strong but you should readjust it. This solves the potential differential stretch problem.)
Now, smooth out the splice area so the hollow is tightly on top of the solid inside it. Take the 1' of Hollow Spectra at the start of the splice and tie a Uni Knot Serve, VERY tightly, at the solid/hollow interface. (This Uni Knot serve, tied with the hollow-line tag, can be tied so that it is directly over the end of the serve; or works okay even if it pulls onto the solid core. The best way to make this Uni knot is at the 2 minute 30 second point of: P.R. Bobbin Knot)
One last note: I have not shown how to make the end-loop splice. This end loop can be made small or large. If you're casting a lot, you may want it to be as small as a dime. The end-loop splice is easier, more reliable, stronger and easier to size than a Bimini Twist (a knot I really use a lot.) BHP Tackle, with whom I have no affiliation, has tools if you need them (I use wire) and some notes on how to make the end-loop. It is easy to do and gets easier as the line size goes up.
Also, you could use this to splice solid to solid by replacing the end-loop in my photo with another solid/hollow splice.
If you have the time to do this you get 100% strength compared with 70% strength Uni to Uni. This will allow reels to be loaded with metered solid braid but still take advantage of loop to loop connections.
Here are the step by step photos of the SH Splice. Please see my first note in this thread for other details and comments. Of all the steps, step 4, pulling the Uni VERY tight is the key. That is what serves the connection.
You can make the splice section as long as you like. I have suggested 3' but you could make it 6' if that felt better. Once you have the splicing needle in the hollow core it only takes a few seconds longer.
ED NOTE: If you prefer, after exiting hollow for 1" in photo 5, you can just insert the solid back into the hollow for 6". If the splice ever moves, you will see a 1" telltail sticking out of the line.
There have been a number of discussions lately about splicing solid to hollow regarding, castability, durability and size. I thought it might help to see the sizes of various connections for casting, side by side.
I've tied knots using Jinkai 130# Mono, 80# Spectra White Braid and 80# Spectra Green Braid. The picture says it all but I'll add a couple comments. The particular spectra I'm using can be spliced or knotted and has an ABS of about 120 lbs. even though it's labeled 80# line.
1. Albright Knot: This is a traditional connection knot between lines of different sizes. When you load test this, the braid breaks at about 70 lbs. (120lb. line). It is large, easily damaged when cast through the guides and not particularly durable. I could have tied it better but it's only in the photo for size comparison.
2. Pressure Serve (non-glued): This is a new style serve that is 100% strong, breaks at about 120 lbs. flexible and durable.
3. P.R. Knot: This is a proven 100% knot and breaks at around 120 lbs. This knot is tied about 1.25 inches long, some tie longer. The key thing to keep an eye on is the closure knot (a Uni in this case). If it starts to loosen from casting, retie. The mono nub can be problematic so keep it smooth.
4. Uni to Uni Braid connection: Breaks around 70 lbs. Easy/quick to tie in solid. Very durable if pulled very tight.
5. Uni Serve for Solid/Hollow Splice: Breaks around 120 lbs. Smaller than Uni to Uni.
6. Single Loop to Loop Connection: Fast to change, easy to tie accurately, 100% strong, very small, breaks around 120 lbs.
7. Line to Line splice: King of connections. Very small, very smooth, 100% strong, stable. So good that if you load your reel with hollow-weave, you can replace the top 100 yards every year or two with no concerns about connection strength. Both lines must be hollow weave.
In the second photo,
As was showed last year (Direct Line to Line Splice Solid to Hollow), line to line splicing between solid and hollow can be done. It takes patience and practice but an 8-thread weave like OTI 80# depthfinder line (25' per color) can be opened and then hollow-weave pulled inside. This connection is 100% strong and very streamlined. Look carefully and you can see where my splicing wire came outside the weave of the OTI (yellow) and went back in. That's okay for a few "picks" as long as you don't damage the threads. The "S" is where the lines join.
If you add 25' of JB white, it becomes your first color. The white is JB, the yellow is OTI. It took about 20 minutes but would only need to be made once (or when replacement was needed). As long as you didn't need to replace more than 10 or 15', you could splice new hollow to the old hollow and leave the solid/hollow splice intact.
It could be used twice to splice a solid to a solid.
Still, for my money, I just buy the JB hollow-weave.
PF
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