Varnish Removal

[Deep C]

In my boats past life some dumb ass decided to varnish the teak door leading into the cabin. I sanded what could out of there but the door face is 6" x 1" slats that I cant get to. I gave it a good scrubbin with "rybovitch teak cleaner" (Comet ) and the wood is lookin pretty good except for those little ******* varnished pots I cant reach to sand.
Any ideas? Good liquid remover? Heat gun? C4?

[johnseafood]

I was thinking more of quater sticks but C4 works just as well . Paul can't really help you out I always sand and I can get to everything . I'll ask around to see what I can come up with

[TROPHY SPORTFISHING]

Paul a heat gun and straight scraper will do the trick.

[flatbottom]

rembrant.
if you are sure it is varnish. Go to your local paint supply and ask for orange shellac. Yes old time finish. IT will STICK. Dries in your hot sun in 3 minutes a coat. Now when the label says Best applied in 3 coats or more. That does not mean ware three coats. I found that out the hard way It will be good as new for your lazers to gaze at...OR

sand, clean, sand some more, get the heat gun going, sand some more, scrape awhile, sand some more. Then break for lunch. Times up this is no union job dude. Sand some more, dust you work and see if you like. Be critical now. Shit I will re finish the SOB.

If you are a brush savor. Buy some denatured alcohol, or some homeade clear and clean your bush...I mean brush. OR Chuck the brush and be done with it.

Just my shake on it....your welcome any time sir

[Fishwagon]

Shellac does not hold up well on exterior surfaces. Spar varnish is better. The best being Helmsman from Minwax. You dont need to get every little grain clean, because the topcoats will make it all blend.

For an even more durable surface, use a clear two part epoxy. You dont necessarily need it, unless it is a horizontal surface that water may sit on, or it is highly exposed (continous salt spray)

One of the best chemical strippers is KWIK-Marine grade. You'd need to take the door off the hinges to use it (dont get it on the deck).-if you've already done most of it-I wouldnt bother

For doing louvers, I just use 50 grit sandpaper, followed by 100 and 120. Buy a whole pack of 25 sheets (of thick paper backing), so you can fold them into quartered sheets. they will be stiff enough to work between the slats. They will eat it right up. dont worry about scratches, the 100/120 grit, and topcoat will make them disapear.

A good carbide bladed scraper will get the accessable 90 degree corners clean. for the inner edges of the doorframe, between the louvers, you may want to use a small file. Buy a straight scraper or 5-in-1 tool, and sharpen them a little more on a stone

[Deep C]

I don't want to put it on... I want to take it off ...

[flatbottom]

ok then have it your way......take the door off......buy the gel stripper that is orange(citrus) pile it on. It removes multiple layers. Do this in the Florida shade, not on your nice grass. Let stand for three reds and a coffee. Use your filet knife point or if wahoo was there(stainless scissors) and scrape away. wash down with h2o and let dry. Go to the pool store and grab a pouch of granulated pool shock(2 bucks for cheap deep). Mix a slurry and spread on. Z wood will be bleached Blondie minus the back talk. Rinse and let dry. Do not breath the chlorine(cough) your lungs will love you, or bleach your baby blues white. Then apply your teaking oil if ya want.

no need for the homemade clear , unless u have a buddy to send it to.

protect your face and arms. These chemicals will alter your silhouette

[Fishwagon]

If you use a stripper, forget citrus, use one with Methylene Chloride. You get what you pay for, so use one that you pay 22-28$ per gallon it will be twice as fast as the 14$/gallon stuff, and 10 times faster than citrus.

teak oil or tung oil or any other oil/wax combination will not keep it preserved as well, and free of stains as spar/urethane/ or epoxy.

Justmy .02

I'll respectfully bow out of any debate about the subject, because I understand that the oil/spar issue has decent points on both sides, and is a highly personal decision.

good luck with the door. Sorry If I annoyed you with the pitch against oils.

[Proheat]

Deep- I had sanded the slats in my door and I had went to Walmart and bought a mouse.........No not a 4 legged mouse...........I think Black and Decker make it. It is called a mouse and it has a pointed front and some attachments and works great for this type of job. You can use it with all grades of coarseness sandpaper........it just sticks to the bottom of the mouse.