Refinishing a Fighting Chair

[True Grit]

I may unddertake a winter to refinish my old fighting chair. The varnished teak doesn't look too bad but the white fabric on the arms needs replacing because of rips, etc. Does anyone know where I can get the white vinyl fabric. Also if the finish doesn't look too bad whats the best way to brighten up - a light sanding followed by a coat of varnish?

Thanks

[WAHOONBOX]

JUST BE SURE YOU USE MARINE GRADE, ANTI-MILDEW, AND UV TREATED VINYL...

SINCE YOU ARE DEALING WITH SUCH A SMALL PIECE OF MATERIAL, BE CAUTIOUS NOT TO USE A PIECE OF VINYL THAT HAS AN "INK STAMP LOGO " ON THE BACKSIDE OF VINYL


IT MAY POSSIBLY BLEED THROUGH AND AFTER ALL THAT HARD WORK, YOU DANG SURE DON'T WANT TO RE-DO IT

NAUTOLEX WHITE....THE BEST WORKING VINYL IMO ON THE MARINE MARKET

[clt_capt]

If the teak is in good shape, and there are no water intrusions on the old varnish, you can give it a light sanding, and a few coats of varnish - you want to re-establish the UV protection of the varnish.

A few coats of varnish will protect for a few years - if you keep up with it - and re-apply when it loses the shine... Much easier than stripping and starting from scratch

[True Grit]

Thanks Gents. When applying the varnish over existing varnish ....should I snad with a 220 grit to get a bite and plan on a couple of coats maybe three. Whats the best applications technique.....brush and the tip?

[canyongear]

True,
unless your really good with a brush..a badger hair brush...I would do exactly that 3 or 4 brush coats let dry for a couple days between depending on humidity and for the last sand go to like 400 grit. Sand and Sand then wipe with mineral spirits..any little void, ripple or mar will magnify 10x with varnish so sand again. Buy a preval sprayer at any marine supply cut the varnish about 20% with mineral spirits and lay on light coats to cover then one medium heavy coat while still a bit tacky (carefull varnish cut for a sprayer will run easily..reason for the last coat on a tacky surface) and let it dry for days. The sprayer will give a nice even flow and finish that a brush can't, especially on the flat surfaces. If your really a stickler build a plastic tent top over the spray table so any dust won't settle on the wet varnish. If your not that picky brush away and sand sand sand between coats. IMHO..

The photos are of a Murray chair I did one winter the varnish was done by a pro..with a brush. I've varnished a bit of teak over the years and a final spray would really even out the finished result. It seems to fill the little voids for a smoother finish. Final spray was not done on this chair and you can see the little voids, bubbles and mini mini brush marks. Awesome job tho for free hand with a brush.

P.S. - that chair was stripped bare and 10 hand brushed coats applied. It was Epifanes Varnish if I remember correctly.

[Andaman Andy]

I like to use foam brushes for varnish work, leaves no brush marks and you don't have to worry about bristles coming out.

[Banshee]

Not to hijack this thread but does any one know a good Marine grade Chrome re-plater, I know a Lousy one. I am hoping the guy will redio his work as it lasted 6 months before it corroded.
JW

[True Grit]

Thanks Gents. When applying the varnish over existing varnish ....should I snad with a 220 grit to get a bite and plan on a couple of coats maybe three. Whats the best applications technique.....brush and the tip?

[Big Fish Billy]

True,
unless your really good with a brush..a badger hair brush...I would do exactly that 3 or 4 brush coats let dry for a couple days between depending on humidity and for the last sand go to like 400 grit. Sand and Sand then wipe with mineral spirits..any little void, ripple or mar will magnify 10x with varnish so sand again. Buy a preval sprayer at any marine supply cut the varnish about 20% with mineral spirits and lay on light coats to cover then one medium heavy coat while still a bit tacky (carefull varnish cut for a sprayer will run easily..reason for the last coat on a tacky surface) and let it dry for days. The sprayer will give a nice even flow and finish that a brush can't, especially on the flat surfaces. If your really a stickler build a plastic tent top over the spray table so any dust won't settle on the wet varnish. If your not that picky brush away and sand sand sand between coats. IMHO..

The photos are of a Murray chair I did one winter the varnish was done by a pro..with a brush. I've varnished a bit of teak over the years and a final spray would really even out the finished result. It seems to fill the little voids for a smoother finish. Final spray was not done on this chair and you can see the little voids, bubbles and mini mini brush marks. Awesome job tho for free hand with a brush.

P.S. - that chair was stripped bare and 10 hand brushed coats applied. It was Epifanes Varnish if I remember correctly.

I'd say this guy pretty well spelled it out.......

[vinoone]

I am refinishing a fighting chair as well. Sanded to bare wood and have applied first coat of marine grade finish. Do I sand or steel wool between each coat and if so what grade(s)? I plan on applying as many as 8 or 10 coats before its done.

Thank you