By John Unkart
The big one always gets away! Well, not all of them. But, every avid offshore angler can recall an unfortunate tale of the tail that got away. Increase chances of displaying a photo or filling the freezer with filets by not repeating the costly mistakes I've made over the years with trophy fish on the line.
Professional Mate Jon Meade was running the pit on the Sea Wolf when this giant was captured. No mistakes can be made when battling trophy fish.
Pressure…
The number one reason fish are lost can be contributed to increased pressure. This normally occurs while trying to slow down drag screaming fish. A smidgen of extra pressure is added to the drag setting or a thumb is placed on the spool. The thumb move accomplishes two things, a lost fish and vocal outburst of four letter word expletives from pain and anger. Allow the reel's drag to do its job. Preset drags at twenty to twenty five percent of the line strength and leave them alone. Use a scale and set the drag at a straight pull off the reel. Not sure how much pressure is transferred with slight pressure of a thumb? Attach the line to a fixed object. Hold the rod at a forty five degree angle with the drag engaged and start backing up quickly, simulating a fish taking line. Now apply thumb pressure. The line "snap" is a great indicator of how little thumb pressure is necessary to exceed the lines breaking point. Combine thumb pressure, excitement and line disappearing from a reel, and well, you get the point. Experienced anglers may get away with increasing or decreasing the drag. However, if you are using a quality reel, once the drag is set it may be prudent to take your chances with that setting.
A fish that stretches out 400 yards of line increases line tension from water resistance. Backing off the drag a couple pounds
is not out of the question. Nor is backing off the drag when the fish is at boat side with very little line out, meaning there is no line stretch if the fish runs. But, unless the angler has a good feel for the amount of pressure being exerted, it is difficult to reset a drag under pressure. After using the same set of Penn International outfits for years, I was able to tell by the bend in a rod the amount of pressure being applied by the angler and could adjust drags accordingly. But, keep in mind I watched these rods everyday to obtain this knowledge.
The second pressure mistake is made while trying to bring a fish within gaffing distance. A little extra pressure applied to the leader by whoever is wiring, results in line separation. Or, when wind‑on's are being used, the fish makes a run near the boat, the rod is raised increasing pressure which results is a broken line. Allow the fish to run when it has energy to pull drag. When the fish is near the boat with no line to stretch , point the rod at the running fish. Trying to force a fish to gaff before being tired may end in disaster.

Under the boat
An angler 's natural reaction when fighting fish is to raise the rod and retrieve line as it is lowered. However, when a fish sounds down under the boat and the rod is raised high, the line rubs on the chine of the hull creating friction, although, not for very long. The rod needs to be pointed down toward the fish. It may be necessary to hold an angler's belt while they bend over to get the rod down in the water to prevent the line from rubbing or entangling on the strut or prop. Fight fish under the boat by winding down to the water, lift the rod to a 90‑degree angle to the line and wind back down. Not by lifting the rod over head, then winding down. The best option is to maneuver the boat so the angler can do battle with the fish behind the transom.
Slack line







