On my big fillet rigs or whole bluefish rigs the wire gets bumped up to #15 and the hooks grow to either 12/0 3407SSD or 7732 needle eyes in 11/0. Since 99% of my sharks are released I find that ones that have started to rust off my marlin and other trolling rigs being recycled work well.
Attaching the hooks to single strand requires haywire and barrel twists. I really need to do a 101 just on that but for now I will give a brief description. A haywire is where both wires twist around each other, followed by the barrel which finishes it off with three or four neat and tight wraps with the tag end of the wire around the main wire. At the loop end of the rig, the end of the barrel wrap is broken off flush with it using a backward turn against the grain. At the hook end I will leave a "pin" remaining.
Now it ain't over yet. I said "hooks" meaning more than one… For time savings I will twist up a bunch of main rigs and then twist up the stingers to be added.

The stinger loops are twisted as the others with haywire and barrel but no pins remain on this section. They are all busted flush… The nearly finished rig will look like this…

Now we gotta tack some baits to these rigs… What do I use for bait? If you were paying attention above you would see that my preferred bait is bluefish. Being that they also eat the scombroids, I add a mack or two here and there.
My bluefish baits are rigged whole, whole fillet, half fillet strip and even a "plug". The macks are rigged whole.
My whole fish rig sets the hooks about eight inches apart with the pin about 2 inches in front of the lead hook. For the bluefish rigs, the hooks are about 16 inches apart and about 3.5 inches from the lead hook to the pin. That distance to the pin is determined by the number of haywires and how tight or loose you wrap them.

On the whole baits I insert the hook through the gill plate and push the tip down and back out the belly leaving the stinger just hanging out.

Next I run the pin through BOTH lips of the bait…

After running the pin through you can use a rubber band (for speed) or section of monel wire for accuracy to seal the mouth shut. I used a rubber band for the demo because it shows up better on the screen….

Next we take the stinger hook and run it down to the tail without bending the fish and I run the hook up so its 180 degrees from the other hook… You want a little looseness and no bend there otherwise the bait will spin…

Ok that the basic whole bait… It's not done quite yet though. I add two cuts about three inches long on a mack and about eight inches long along either side of the backbone. This gives you four "sides" for scent to emit from. Another trick is you can twist your knife in there to bust the back bone which will limber the bait up some and allow it to work a bit more naturally. If you want to get creative, you can inject bunker oil or other scent product into the cuts and let soak in. Finally, since makos are largely sight feeders, you can add a skirt to create more visual flutter. On near surface baits I like hot pink, on deeper baits I'll go to a bright green or on cloudy days, a white with splotches of pink seems to produce well high and low.
Another quick pointer is that the bluefish rigs I twist are designed for about 8-pound class blues. Sometimes early in the season, I don't always get that size and say 3 pounds is more common. For them I don't do the pin part as the second hook length would be too scrunched. Instead I just run the front hook from bottom to top through the lips and the rear hook gets turned down…